Finally tried the monarch lathe

Wateryagonnado when you need 500+ rpm? Rent?

Interesting way to phrase that Iggy. You just put a bag over those parts and its fine...

Or just use another avenue of approach.

Well done that he got a good near new Monarch. Bad that he is going to sell the everyday user machine for normal small stuff.

He seems bound and determined to run .250 stuff at 500 rpm...and Ive..we have all mentioned the problems with that to him...yet he is going to continue on his path...so one always gives a big hug to the slow or retarded. Its the loving thing to do.

Shrug

Gunner

We've all made moves that were regretted. In Iggy's case, i bet he buys a 10EE or an HLV-H for peanuts.

Karl

Ayup. If he sells the lathe..he really..really needs to find a HLV-H. That would do him pretty well for the common everyday stuff.

Id sell him my HLV-H..but Ive not quite decided to sell it or not. And it wont be cheap.

Gunner

I guess we prefer what we know. I like the 10EE better. You're right the DC drive is often dead or dying. Not a very big job. Especially in view of the cost savings.

I just got a pass from SWMBO to bid on a 1978 10EE in cherry shape with a ton of tooling. I agreed to sell *gack* my beloved (1940) 10EE if I'm top bidder. My machine is still in top shape so I may not bid high enough.

I bought a very nice HLV-H for $1k once. At an auction, no less.

This is an experienced instrument maker's opinion of the Monarch EE and the HLV-H versus less specialized lathes:

The runtogether words look like they were originally at line breaks on a wider column.

Last night I had no trouble cutting a 5/16-24 thread up to a minimal-width groove I cut with the threading bit, on the SB 10L. The spindle stops almost instantly when I see the curled chip stop moving and raise the belt tension lever. The part is a grease hole plug in the side of a tube and needed threads up to within a thin washer's thickness from the head. jsw

We set the Monarch in place yesterday. I figured out operation of all handles, except for one.

I am thinking to install a micro switch in line with the STOP button, so that I can provide an adjustable stop for the automatic feed. That way I could start a fine feed turning operation and walk away.

That should be done not with a stop button, but with some sort of lever to disconnect the feed lever. You dont want the machine to wind down with a tool in contact with the material. Trust me on this. You will have some parts long..and some short and some with the tool busted off in the work if you do.

Gunner

Gunner, I am convinced that you are right.

Anyway, what exactly do micrometer stops do? Just help with manual operation? Sorry for my ignorance. The machine has a mic stop. I am home today taking a break from work.

Micrometer stops are for HAND operation of the carriage. You simply turn the crank until you hit the stop. Doing it under power...will strip out your bronze half nuts/drive nuts instantly..or shear the safety dowel in your gear train. There are many different types of engagements and most..most of them will require it to be done by hand. Hardinge lathes are one of the few lathes that use a friction clutch and putting in a micrometer stop and running up against it while under power is normal operation. Ive had to fix more than one lathe that people didnt understand this..and busted something. Usually they sheared the dowel pin (safety pin)..but several times that shearable pin had been replaced with a hardened steel dowel and it didnt shear..and wiped out gears in the headstock. And that..gets expensive really quickly.

Now there are some..some lathes with a manual "button" of some sort that can have a "trip stop" on them that when hit..will take it out of gear. My Clausing 1500 is one such. But not all..or even most are so equipped.

Gunner

My South Bend has an adjustable friction clutch on the carriage feed, but it's not active for threading. I loosen the flat leather drive belt to stop the spindle quickly. There isn't much inertia in it with only a collet.

The cam lever that engages the feed rotates to set the friction clutch. It easily shifts and loses its setting when I operate the lever. jsw

Gunner, some lathes with micrometer stops *will* disengage the feeds and/or threading - mine does the feeds within a thou" but screwcutting is still m anual.

Feed disengagement is done by a torque-sensing face cam each for the cross and carriage feeds independently which drops the worm out of engagement, wo rks really well and it's foolproof - easy to set up too, with a gauge tray aligned with the micrometer head and an adjustable stop rod!

I'd like it to have threading stops like the Hardinge HLV-H etc., but for s ome reason they were skipped on the lathe I have... Working on that, though , looks simple enough to do the clutch etc. but the operating rod and trip mechanism is a bit of a challenge.... For now, I have VFD braking set up wi th a microswitch at the runout point, works ok, but...

Iz zist the same group that's been around forever ... or even longer?

If it is HELLLLOOOO I haven;t seen this group for over 10 years

I'm the Bridgeport know-it-all (not)