Says minor scuffs and scratches. Wonder if they are on the reamer or
on the box? If you get it, be sure to carefully examine the flutes to
see it there are scuffs and scratches. If so, stone them out, if
possible. Else they will duplicate themselves in your Morse #5.
I've got a set from MT-1 through MT-5 in a fitted wooden box,
plus a MT-0 which I already had added in where there was room.
I've used the MT-2 to clean the taper in my drill press spindle
(which was spitting out tools too readily), and the MT-3 in the lathe's
tailstock (for similar reasons). I've also used the MT-2 and MT3 for
making adaptors from the MT-4-1/2 in my lathe's spindle.
I've got a taper attachment to get close to the desired taper,
and then finish it with the MT finish reamer held in the reamer holder
in the bed turret.
Of course -- I first turned the OD taper to match the MT-4-1/2,
then turned a bit of a small step on each end to minimize the chance of
burrs or dings making it offsized or off-center, then drilled, turned
the ID and reamed.
Or do you mean "How do I turn the taper reamer to clean the
inner taper of the spindle?" For *that* I set up for the slowest speed,
mount the reamer in a large tap holder, use the center in the tailstock
to hold the outer end on center, and lightly press the reamer into the
slowly turning (35 RPM) spindle. It *has* to be a light pressure or it
will grab the tap wrench from your hands and slam it into the bed rails.
It would be a good idea to put a piece of wood over the bed to protect
it if this happens. But you don't want to remove a lot of metal -- just
a tiny amount from high spots.
Hmm ... come to think of it -- I could *not* have done the ID of
the spindle, since I don't have a MT 4-1/2 reamer. I just did the ID of
the adaptors inside the spindle.
As for in the tailstock, I held it in place by the heel of my
hand, and used an open-end wrench to turn it a little. Ease off the
hand pressure before you stop turning so you don't leave burrs in the
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in
As far as I know the MT 4-1/2 on my lathe is the same taper as an MT5. I
purchased a hardened and ground MT 5-3 sleeve to make an adaptor with the
intent of reducing the OD to match my lathe. The small end goes in and
fits nicely into the headsock. Gauge line dimensions seem to be the only
difference so a MT 5 reamer should nicely clean a MT 4-1/2 spindle if
I thought that in general lathe spindles were hardened and ground,
my Harrison M300 is, so is it a good idea to use a reamer to clean the
taper?, I might have thought it would tend to damage the reamer cutting
I think you have a close fit not a fit.
MORSE DIAMETER DIAMETER
TAPER# (A) (B) LENGTH
0 .35610" .25200 1-15/16
1 .47500 .36900 2-1/16
2 .70000 .57200 2-1/2
3 .93800 .77800 3-1/16
4 1.23100 1.02000 3-7/8
4-1/2 1.50000 1.26600 4-5/16
5 1.74800 1.47500 4-15/16
6 2.49400 2.11600 7
7 3.27000 2.75000 9-1/2
Charles U Farley wrote:
_Machinery's Handbook_ -- 25th edition, page 910:
(Table 5, "American National Standard Self-Holding Tapers")
No. of Taper Taper per Foot
(This table is the only place where I have found MT-4-1/2 spec'd. I
think that when ANSI grabbed the Brown & Sharpe, the Morse, and the
'3/4" per foot taper series' (I think Jarno taper) to make an ANSI
standard covering a wide range, they added the 4-1/2 to fill what they
considered to be too large a gap in the series. That is why it and the
MT-7 are the only Morse tapers to have only zeros after the third
decimal place. :-)
The difference between the MT 5 and the MT 4-1/2 should be
0.00731 inch/foot. Whether this is small enough to be no problem
probably depends on your application -- and perhaps on how accurately
the MT 5 taper was made.
I would not use a MT 5 reamer in my MT 4-1/2 spindle.
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I think that this depends on the maker -- and perhaps the model
as well. I know that the spindle which I have on my 12x24" Clausing
shows signs of not being hardened and ground where the bull gear engages
the spindle. It *might* have been case hardened in certain areas and
ground. But I think that hardening the whole length of the spindle
risks it warping.
A reamer used with very light force should do a good job of
scraping off junk without harming the reamer or the spindle, assuming
the taper is hardened and ground.
I do know that the ram on the tailstock is not hardened
anywhere along its length.