Hardince HC Chucker -- someone needs help

Thanks Gunner. I sent an email to you and Cc-ed to Tom. This will get him started.

being dual speed

Any idea what a "threading attachment", with a bunch of threaded cams, for that chucker, would be worth? Tom gave me that one in trade for something.

Joe Gwinn IIRC is looking for one for his new HC.

The threading attachment (and the back mounting plate) is worth about $300, the threading masters are worth about $35 each, depending on how many are on Ebay at the moment. Sometimes less, other times more.

At the moment..about $300 for attachment and masters are about right. Next month...shrug

They are gettting more and more common as companies are dumping/scrapping their HCs so the value is going down.

I gave away a threading attachment about a year ago, and traded a couple dozen thread masters for an ancient Hobart gas powered welder off a Liberty ship, that Ive not brought home yet, but it was between friends

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

I have an older HC, mid 50's era. Something inside mine will pop now and again, and it won't run for a while. I don't have any schematics for it and don't know enough about electrical to try and track it down. I'm considering switching to a VFD soon as I figure out how to interlock switching from low to high speed windings so that I don't make this switch under power while running the VFD.

Have found this a problem too. I think a limit switch is being overun now and then. I use a pair of pliers to back the screw off a bit. If it's not at the end of travel and won't work, it's something else. Again, a VFD will solve this problem....

Jon

Yes, but the MOTOR may have been rewired for 220 without changing the heaters in the starter.

Otherwise, it could be a problem with his phase converter. If it is far out of balance, it may be good enough to start the motor, but then there is a big circulating current between the converter and the lathe.

Jon

This is a single voltage motor. 208

That could be. He had a lousy multimeter, I forgot to take mine, so it was hard to ascertain.

I wish it were true. But all I have is an old Clausing 5914. Someday I'll move up to a Hardinge, but I plan to get some experience on the Clausing first. So far, I have no managed to break anything.

Joe Gwinn

The VFDs arrived a few minutes ago. I expect I'll have one hooked up within the hour :)

Thanks,

Pete C.

make sure to follow instructions. There is a one page there "getting started" that tells you how to get your motor running, maybe not in the most convenient way but you would see that the drive works.

Up and running. Now I need to build a mount for it.

Cool!

Will you make a little housing for a pot and a FWD-OFF-REV switch?

Post some pix...

Also keep in mind, these drives that I sold to you, have dynamic braking, this is nice for machines like lathes and mills. Highly recommended to take advantage. Like a stop programmed in 1 second.

Yep, and quieter than the rotary phase converter.

I doubt it, the front panel controls seem fine. Easy to enter the frequency you want or use the up/down arrows to adjust it.

Eventually. I'm off Fri-Mon diving in Cozumel, so I won't get to it until next week.

Yep, I noticed it seems to be set about there now. No more using the spindle brake to stop it for a cutter change.

The wonders of technology...

Great. Pete, there is nothing that you can possibly do to break these drives with your Bridgeport mill, except for one thing: switch the motor off by using your reversing switch on the mill, while the drive is running. So keep this in mind. I am sure you knew, but I wanted to say anyway.

The quietness factor alone is worth $120. So your speed adjustments, and dynamic braking, are freebies. :)

The existing drum switch will be removed, so no chance of switching under power. I may mount the whole VFD up in that position since it's not very heavy. Less fab work than a swing arm. Dunno, I'll see what makes the most sense.

I would not remove it.

I usually flip this drum switch whenever I change the mill's gearing from main gear to back gear. That way, forward on the drive always means forward. Think about it.

I'm not too concerned for the one time every other year that I might use the back gear.

I presume that the lathe already has a drum switch, and it is not that difficult to bypass the switch in the wiring to the motor, and use the drum switch as the FWW/OFF/REV switch. This allows reflexes built working with this machine to carry over to a standard one powered from commercial three phase.

The real question is where to put the pot.

Indeed so -- to the dropbox and post the URL to them here.

Indeed so -- and thus reversing in 2 seconds or less (depending on the programmed start time).

Enjoy, DoN.

It's a Bridgeport mill. No drum switch will remain and there will be no speed pot. I'm quite comfortable with entering the speed and run stop using the VFDs keypad. Rather similar to the Sxxxx M03 deal on a CNC.

BP drum switch is kind of hard to rewire.