Lathe lubricants

Hi all,
I'm in the process of setting up my new (to me obviously...) 1933 11" SB lathe. In reading the SB lathe group's FAQ and looking at an SB oiling
diagram I see four specific lubricants that are needed. I can find only two of them in the ENCO book and am having little luck finding them elsewhere. I know that it's only because I'm not sure what I'm looking for and I'm hoping that others can point me in the right direction.
The FAQ suggests four types of lubes:
Type A - Mobil Velocite Spindle Bearing Oil #10 This I can find in the Enco catalog
Type B Turbine Oil SAE 10W to SAE 10 Can't find this or what I understand to be an equivalent. Can I use Type A instead?
Type C "Non detergent multipurpose Machine Oil SAE 20" Will Mobil DTE Series Circulating Oil (Enco # 325-5922 page 734) work for this?
Way Oil This I can find in the Enco catalog
Can anyone point me to Type B and C lubricants? I know these are staring me in the face and I'm not knowledgeable enough to recognize them... Thanks for your help.
Regards,
Peter
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I figured it out...
Peter
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Peter, This can be very confusing, but I order my lubes direct from ESSO. You can find anything you need in their catalogue, but the smallest container is either 20 or 30 liters. You need the Saybolt number of the oil you need though. Do not use an automotive oil. The additive package is not compatible for machine tools primarily because of particle suspension. Automotive oils keep the contaminants in suspension so the filter can remove them. Machine oils should will allow the particulate to settle out in the sump. Steve

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Steve,
I have a South Bend chart with the Saybolt numbers (as well as some with an ISO number and others with SAE numbers) but hadn't been able to find their equivalents. I then went to the Logan Lathe BB and found an supplier cross reference. While this chart didn't have the Saybolt number (what IS a Saybolt number?), I was able to figure out what was needed. I ordered everything from McMaster Carr in one gallon containers - enough, I'm sure, to last a good long time...
Thanks,
Peter

compatible
oils
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with an

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sure,
What is everyone using for the Teflon/Lithium grease for the back gear and spindle? Spray, grease gun?
Thanks C
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I'm using Permatex "Super Lube". It's advertised as being a "long-lasting multi-purpose synthetic-based lubricant with teflon". The problem I had was that on my 9" South Bend, the threaded hole where you put the grease is threaded 1/4"-20 and zirc fittings are 1/4"-28. I made an adapter by taking a allen headed bolt 1/4"-20 X 5/8" long and through drilled it. I then drilled and tapped the head to fit the 1/4"-28 zirc fitting threads. It works like a champ.
Dave Young
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Is using grease considered better than using oil, or is it a convenience issue?
Peter

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South Bend originally recommended grease on the back gear and oil in the spindle cone. They have since retracted the oil recommendation and recommends teflon grease in both. As I understand it, the problem with the oil is that it would drip onto the leather belt. I've not had that problem with the grease. I'm not talking about the oil in the oil cups for the spindle bearings, keep using oil there!!! I'm talking about the spindle cone (where the pulley is). I do have an electronic copy of the lubrication chart if you're interested. Contact me at davey(at)maine.rr.com if you're interested.
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Yes it will (drip out and wind up on the belt), but another problem with grease is, if the grease is too thick or congeals after time, it will lock the cone pulley to the spindle. I had a heck of a time freeing up my most recent 10L cone pulley because of this.
Jim
================================================= please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================
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The
you
Great tip, can you tell me where you get the Permatex? I checked McMaster and got nothing, I even checked Permatex's site with no luck.
Concerning the stepped pulley on the spindle, there is a felt strip in the pulley bore on either side of the fill hole. There is also a small reservoir space running the circumference of the bore under the fill hole. Does that grease have a low enough viscosity to wick through the felt? Or does the grease simply compress the felt to flow toward the ends? I ask because the Yahoo lathe group lists another grease available at McMaster that is available in an aerosol.
According to the South Bend oil chart it list another aerosol for open gears not running in oil,,, two birds, one can of oil,,, maybe?
Thanks! C
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Not sure where you can buy the Permatex, I bought a case of 12 off E-bay for something like $20. Enough to last me a while, though I do use it for other things besides the lathe.
I can't really advise you about your other questions. I don't remember what it looks like under the screw for the spindle cone, but I only recall a void (no felts). I looked in my parts manual and I don't see any felts there either. The spindle cone has a threaded hole with a screw and the word "oil" embossed on the pulley. That's where South Bend now says to use grease. On the gear train, I just oil occasionally. My lubrication chart doesn't show anything about oiling/greasing the gear train. I just don't like the idea of running them dry. On the other hand the reverse bracket (oil cup), reverse gears and idler gear do call for lubrication which I do, but I also add a bit of oil to the other gears.
Not trying to sound vague, I'm still learning my lathe also.....
:-)
Dave
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E-bay
remember
I think you'll only see the felts if you pull the spindle out of the cone. Then again, I have a 16", yours may be different.
I looked in my parts manual and I don't see

Actualy the parts manual is missing quite a few parts, especially when it comes to felt wicks. I don't think it shows any wicks for the apron.
The spindle cone has a threaded hole with a

add
On your oil chart look under the Lubricating Oil Specs. It has a one sentence blurb about gears not soaking in oil. Now don't think I'm telling you what to do but when I tore my lathe down I found more crap and swarf in the various gear teeth to make me wonder about it's design. Then, while looking for the teflon/lithium grease localy, I found quite a few aerosol lubes made specificly for open air gear trains. They have silicone or graphite but are dry lubes, nothing to attract all the goop into the gear teeth. Not to mention less oil slinging around the shop.

If I could find a picture of the apron wicking for the worm bushings, I'll be learning to RUN my lathe instead of field stripping and oiling it blindfolded for quickest time.
C
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says...

I thought the drill for replacing that wick was in the SB parts manual. I recall having done that with one of my 10Ls, I had to wind it around the outside of the bushing IIRC. Maybe the instructions came with the wicking set that I purchased from SB. I'll look to see if I still have that.
Jim
================================================= please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================
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CROQ

oiling
That would make my Christmas!
The only references I have found in the parts book are in the instructions for installing the toggle clutch. The first states "Remove bushing "H" carefully to avoid tearing felt wick... With bushing remove draw wick through hole bored for bushing." The second, "Insert worm "J" and thread felt wicking around worm gear and through bored hole."
Here is a photo of my situation: http://rothroq.home.att.net/index.htm
Thanks! C
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says...

Damn, that's exactly what my parts manual says. I remember doing this on my old single tumbler 10L, the inside of the clutch housing was packed with junk and the wicks were like iron wire. I seem to recall that the wick they send had an instruction sheet but I cannot find anything like that in my stack of manuals.
Sorry.
I did find a package of SB wicking so I guess I was planning on doing the apron in my newer machine, if I ever get to it I will make a point of photographing exactly how it was done and put the photos in the drop box.
Maybe it was my 9" machine I did, but somehow I seem to recall actually threading the wick through a hole in the worm gear. Might be faulty memory though.
Jim
================================================= please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================
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CROQ

Okay, but there are only 19 days till Christmas Jim.
Jim?...............................Ya still there Jim? <G>
Thanks for looking.
C
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In article <qVMzb.150455$Ec1.5967935@bgtnsc05-

I've got a jar of the Permatex Superlube. I don't recall where I got it and don't see it in McMaster either, but MSC carries it.
Ned Simmons
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Thanks Ned
C
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wrote:

Don't know about Permatex, but I have in front of me, a 3 ounce tube of "Super Lube" from Synco chemical corp, Bohemia N.Y. A look at their web page:
http://www.super-lube.com/index.html
might be of interest. I purchased this material from the sale table of my local "Home Hardware" a couple years ago and have used it in place of "vaseline" in a few applications, where it has performed to my satisfaction. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
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wrote:

One would assume that it didnt dissolve the condom?
BTW...the Superlube multipurpose in the spray can and several of the others, is available from K-mart and works very well for a gun lube, cleaner, and is what I spray on my machine tools between usage to keep the rust down. Stuff is pretty cheap too. Less than $3USD a can IRRC
Gunner
"No man shall be debarred the use of arms. The laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm those only who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes. Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants. They ought to be designated as laws not preventative but fearful of crimes, produced by the tumultuous impression of a few isolated facts, and not by thoughtful consideration of the inconveniences and advantages of a universal decree." - Thomas Jefferson
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