Speaking as a part-time leatherworker...
Waxed cotton thread. Seriously. A glued joint is likely to be too
brittle to hold for long - I wouldn't be overly surprised if it exploded
the first time the joint crosses a radius smaller than about twice the
length of the lapped section.
Avoid synthetics, as they'll tend to be "slippy", particularly if they
manage to stop on a small pulley. And as an added bonus, if that pulley
happens to be the drive, you'll be re-stitching your splice in no time
'cause of the thread melting and letting go. Stick with waxed cotton.
Skive it down to a good long taper (at least 2-3 times the width of the
belt long) on each end on both sides of the joint - one side skived on
the "inside", the other on the "outside" surface - lay 'em up as a lap
joint, and put in at least two, more if you've got the width for it,
lines of stitching that run parallel to the edges, and at least the full
length of the spliced zone plus a couple inches on either end. "Sink"
each stitch (Try to pull it below the belt's surface, and/or stitch into
a shallow groove you've pre-cut on the inside of the loop) and when
you're done, if you've got the room to get the loop open far enough (or
turn it "inside out"), open it up, inside facing you, lay it across your
anvil (I presume you've got one... if not find/use a similar surface) on
top of a *wrung almost dry* piece of cloth, and use a fairly light
rawhide, wood, or plastic mallet to pound the bejeebers out of it. Not
so hard you thin out or split the leather, but hard enough to "seat" the
lap against itself. *SLIGHTLY* loose stitiching is a good thing in this case, as it will
give the lap a bit more flexibility to pass the pulleys without
"thumping" - A super-tight stitch will produce a lap with less ability
to conform to the shape of the pulley, so instead of travelling smoothly
around, it will tend to either "stick" or "slip", depending on how rigid
it ends up being. Both cases will give you a "thump" and/or erratic
"grab-slip" misbehavior as the joint crosses a pulley.
The best stuff is a contact adhesive called Barge Cement.
This is the stuff shoemakers use to glue new soles on and it is seriously
I've tried some other brands of contact adhesives with less than stellar
(not to say that some brand isn't as good, just that the ones I used
In a pinch, I used some Gorilla Glue. It is a foaming polyurethane glue sold
I wiped a very, very thin layer on both sides of the skive and clamped the
joint over night.
That was a couple years ago, and there is no sign of failing.
Paul K. Dickman
William R. Hopcraft wrote in message ...
This is news to the belt manufacturers - how do you think they
get belting in lengths bigger than one cow unit long? They
glue the skived joints.
Leather belt cement used to be sold by McMaster Carr, and that's
what I've always used on my SB machines. The barge cement is
supposedly also available at shoemaker's stores and is reported
to perform fine.
Jim has the same question as I -- if skived and glued is not good, why has
it been used for so long? On the other hand, Don's stitching instructions
were quite clear but seem to be bit of trouble if there is another way.
On Sun, 29 Aug 2004 09:31:06 -0500, "Robert Swinney"
Why use a chipped piece of flat rock when knives are available?
Do you make you own soap, detergent, toothpaste, etc?
One problem with hide glue is temperature. It's intolerant.
Shoe Goo, E6000, etc. are all great sticky stuffs.
I kinda thought animal product to animal product---Hide Glue??--ya know, the
they make by boiling hides,hoofs,horns,etc...
"William R. H> I've got to replace the leather drive belt on my old South Bend lathe. I
Gunner, wiping potato chips and Mt. Dew off his monitor....
It's not unwise to remember that Mother Nature is essentially a
murderous, sneakly, promiscuous bitch who has been trying to kill you
since your conception.
Eventually she will succeed, perhaps with the help of your fellow man.
Life consists in putting off the inevitable as long as possible and
taking what good and joy you can before her success.
Whether you attribute that situation to evolutionary forces, a fallen
nature after Adam and Eve screwed the pooch, or whatever, it's no less true.
Be friendly, pleasant, unaggressive, and honest toward all and be
prepared to ignore, avoid, or even kill anyone who is otherwise toward
you. Being ready doesn't mean eager, just ready. What true friends are
found in life will undestand and accept that fundamental rule of human
interaction." John Husvar
I think that it might depend on the pattern of cutting. I could
picture a spiral which could be pretty long (though it might vary in
toughness as it passes under the belly side) until you get to the milk
production factory, at least.
Hide glue is rigid and won't last any time on a belt. Rabbit skin
glue is flexible, so much more likely to last - especially with maybe
10% glycerine added.
But I'd use a modern glue, like Evo-Stik 528.