Loctite help

I am easily confused. I thought that all Mazda small trucks were rebadged Ford Rangers. And as such ought to have all parts readily available.

Dan

It's a SEAL. You can't glue it. Get the right sized seals.Part Number: SS72680-1 or Part Number: SS45588 available from Autozone.

Early Mazdas were Mazdas, also sold s Ford Couriers.

This is a rebuilt head and somebody installed fatter valve guides. Already purchased sets from Autozone and Rockauto. They are all 0.010" too small in diameter. Here is a decent photo:

It's simply matter of fixing the shell part (no sealing function) to the va lve guide. All the function (sealing) happens at the rubber, spring reinfo rced ring. Hell, I could drill and pin it. Maybe cut a groove into the gu ide with a dremel and stake the thin shell into the groove. The thin coppe r shell cup that fits over the guide does not have to seal, only hold on an d not go on an up-and-down ride with the valve.

Any suitable glues? BTW the cap (shell part) seems to be about 0.010" copp er.

Thanks again.

Given the heavy-duty requirements of the seal, the temperature ranges at which it will operate, and the massively oily enviro, I doubt shims, etc. will work.

Ask a Mazda engine specialist at the local Mazda dealer or Mazda club for help. They'll know. Clare will likely pipe up, too.

device that has a pilot that fits into a cartridge case neck and carries a lathe bit that shaves a little off the outside , to make the case neck a uniform thickness . Would a device like this work to shave a few thousandths off the outside diameter of those guides ? Then you could use one of those seal sets that are just under-size .

is it possible to swage or stretch the shell? or shave/machine the oversize guides in place? Assuming bronze guides? Make a piloted cutter that runs in the guide and cuts the outside of the guide to accurate size so stock seals fit next time too? Or "resize" the oversize guide by squeezing it over a mandrel? If not, red high temp silicone will hold them to the guide.

I had originally understood they were too big for the valve, not the guide. Given it is the guide, even loose they will work like a "cap" or "umbrella" seal like GM used to use, shedding MOST of the oil.

I'd go for permatex red high temp silicone if I didn't have the capability to modify the seals or guides.

exactly.

I would use a spring clamp, any rtv or glue in the oil could lead to blocked passages.

Try Loctite 638. It is good for gaps up to .01". It resists hot motor oil well. Use brake cleaner to degrease the valve guides. Spray the cleaner on a rag and wipe the guides clean. Same for cleaning the seal cup. Don't get the seal itself wet with the cleaner. 638 is permanent, so make sure you really want the seal cups glued on. Eric

No knowledge of use but the spec page looks promising for what you want to do:

Maybe not:

RTVsealer is used by the manufacturer instead of gaskets - just have touse it properly.

The courier was made BEFORE ford made their own small pickups - Ford rebadged the Mazda as a courier. When ford designed the Ranger, Mazda's volume went WAY down and it didn't make sense for Mazda to continue building their own (inferior) small truck, so THEY rebadged the Ford designed Ranger as their B Series.

The Ranger was a FAR superior truck compared to the Courier in SO many ways.

My 1991 Ranger has the Ford-built 2.3l I-4 engine. According to the VIN decoding section of the factory shop manual the other engine options were Ford 2.9l, 3.0l or 4.0l V-6's. It does have a Mazda M5OD transmission.

-jsw

The "mazda" tranny is about the only "mazda" part in any Ranger

The Ranger Wiki states that they were sold as B-series Mazdas beginning in 1994.

That's a $178 bottle of goo he's using in the picture.

My first thought: high-temperature heatshrink tubing, to bulk up the OD of the head your cap goes onto. There's heatsnrink made of teflon (PTFE)