Mag light corrosion (some metal content)

Been there done that! The only batteries in the a, c,d series that I will use are Duracells. Had too many problems with others, especially the bunny brand.

Chuck P.

Completely dead non-rechargeable batteries will generally always leak (and those with manufacturing defects, prematurely dead). With all the advancements in common batteries, apparently not much attention has been given to making them completely leakproof. I'm aware that most brand name cells guarantee their cells won't leak, but I've never bothered sending any damaged items in for repair or replacement.

My trusty 20+ year old Brinkmann which uses 2 AAs just had a bad case of leaky alkaline cells recently. I suspect the head rotated in the toolbox enough to turn it on and kill the batteries completely dead, then they leaked badly.

There was so much leakage and corrosion that the cells wouldn't push out until I put vinegar in the body tube and let it soak for maybe 2 hours, then forced them out with a hardwood dowel rod.

After cleaning up the damage and crystaline crap, I found out that one of the brass contacts for the bulb pins had corroded away. I could probably make a new conact from a small cable connecor contact or other small part, but I just bagged the parts and put 'em in a box. I have enough good flashlighs that I shoulda retired the Brinkmann years ago. I kept using it because I'd put one of the Nite Ize 3-LED conversion lamps in it.

In C or D cell flashlights, there is often enough oversize in the I.D. to be able to wrap some plastic film around the batteries to form a barrier (that thin clear stuff sold as page protectors for 3-ring binders). That may minimize the housing damage if the leak is in the center, and it's discovered soon enough.

I generally always use the plastic film wrap just because I don't like the batteries rattling in the housing, which generally causes changes in the level of light output (although I use Caig DeoxIT grease/paste on all the contacts and housing threads).

I've got 4 or 5 of that same light. I think I generally run Duracells and have not had much problem. If it is ever dropped replace the batteries, I've had two do this and it only seems to take weeks - regardless of how many hrs on the set. One rolled off a milk crate and hit the concrete floor tail first, a few weeks later it didn't work and I couldn't get the tail cap off.

Come to think of it the one in the motor home rolled off the table the last trip - I should take some new batteries over and put them in it.

nttp

That's turning into an interesting discussion. Others write that the bunny brand is totally reliable. I got a box load (display pack for a store) of Energizer AAA, and about one out of 6 or so were corroded. Expires in 2009, too. Not expired stock.

I think I've stumbled into a debate. Which brand of battery.

I wonder if a condom could be used to protect D-cells? I mean, it likely can, but not sure how practical that is. Poke a hole in the one end.... and expect some strange looks at the time of your next battery change. The plastic binder stuff proably better, anyway.

The LED module may be still usable, on your next Minimag or equivilant.

My Rayovac AA NiMH cells sometimes rattle in my minimag. A little electric tape on the battery helps.

I used some Ox Gard or some brand of grey gook on the threads. (I jokingly call it Ox Gored, an Old Testament reference.)

If dropped? I can't remember if this one was dropped. I wonder if that's a pattern?

The usual animal term for it is "Monkey Snot".

jsw

Strange, I thought this was 2010; The Year We Made Contact.

2009 should have been LAST year.

Rayovac is the one major brand I don't trust. I had a Rayovac AAA leak in my autodarkening welding helmet. Given my druthers I get Duracell or EverReady's

RWL

Have had the same with name-brand cells in AA Mini-Maglites. Only there, the switch "cookie" at the end that the reflector depresses when screwed in to turn it on disintegrates, turns to gray powder. Maglite sells switch kits with the tool to remove the old one and install the new for a couple of bucks plus shipping, you can get just about every piece on any of the flashlights from the company as spares. Prices are pretty reasonable, too. Very nice when the cap gets chewed up from being dropped or the lens ring gets dinged. Not enough room in a Mini-Maglite to put a protective plastic sleeve in around the battery stack. Have had to make up a midget slide-hammer puller to get batteries out of them after one leaked, really messy job. Once the switch is out, it's just a tube and regular nylon bore brushes with some vinegar gets the crap out, then a whirl with some wet or dry gets the thing shined up for next time.

Stan

I've lost a couple AA Mag lights that way and so have my friends. Don't remember the brand. I am have some problems with Sam's Club Members Mark AA's leaking and corroding things. Karl

I've noticed elevated temperatures seem to greatly accelerate corrosion in batteries of every description... like leaving flashlights, or storing spare batteries in the car and/or in the influence of other heat sources.

For the record, I live in earthquake country and personal experience through the years has convinced me that wading through debris in the dark isn't fun anymore.

I have two Mini Mag's I've declared mission critical, and dedicated to quake emergency use only. One is between the mattresses at the foot of the bed (along with a good size white painted crow bar). The other is in a drawer near the front door. Both can be easily located by feel in the dark, and are placed so they can't roll or tumble away.

To prevent corrosion 'surprises' I replace the batteries in both every two years, and have my Google calendar set up to automatically remind me. Both lights are also dated with PostIt tape as a back up.

Of course I also have several other various lights scattered around for general use, including a robust little 'Pulsar' LED keychain light with momentary squeeze switch... perfect for quick peeks, and finding a 'real' light should push ever come to shove. The momentary switch works extremely well at preventing accidental pocket activations. Had it for 6 or 7 years... replaced the batteries twice IIRC.

What I'd like is battery technology that will (economically) allow flashlights and the like to be stowed corrosion free, long term in warm/hot environments... like car interiors.

Erik

One thing I've concluded after several years experience is that all Chinese made batteries (primary cells, anyway) are crap. It's not a political issue for me, just lots of experience. I prefer Duracell, but I'll use any batteries that aren't made in China. Their lower price is negated by the shorter service they give, plus they are really prone to leaking. For a while we bought the cheapies at work (from Fastenal, as well as other vendors); that ended up costing us more in the long run. Lots of the AA cells even would leak while still in the wrapper. Back to the good stuff now.

Maybe the Advance brand is from "over yonder".

Joe

And, what makes you think that I purchased the batteries (and noticed the corrosion) in 2010?

Have had the same with name-brand cells in AA Mini-Maglites. Only there, the switch "cookie" at the end that the reflector depresses when screwed in to turn it on disintegrates, turns to gray powder.

CY: Not sure what you mean.

Maglite sells switch kits with the tool to remove the old one and install the new for a couple of bucks plus shipping, you can get just about every piece on any of the flashlights from the company as spares. Prices are pretty reasonable, too.

cY: I just screw the lens head off, pop the bulb out, and pull the switch apart with my finger nails.

Very nice when the cap gets chewed up from being dropped or the lens ring gets dinged. Not enough room in a Mini-Maglite to put a protective plastic sleeve in around the battery stack.

CY: Mine, the Rayovac rechargables are loose enough to rattle.

Have had to make up a midget slide-hammer puller to get batteries out of them after one leaked, really messy job. Once the switch is out, it's just a tube and regular nylon bore brushes with some vinegar gets the crap out, then a whirl with some wet or dry gets the thing shined up for next time.

CY: Sounds like good cleaning. I didn't think of bore brushes, though I've used pipe cleaning brushes like for copper pipe soldering.

Stan

CY: yes, heat does that.

For the record, I live in earthquake country and personal experience through the years has convinced me that wading through debris in the dark isn't fun anymore.

CY: I can imagine that. Strap on head lamp is a good idea.

I have two Mini Mag's I've declared mission critical, and dedicated to quake emergency use only. One is between the mattresses at the foot of the bed (along with a good size white painted crow bar). The other is in a drawer near the front door. Both can be easily located by feel in the dark, and are placed so they can't roll or tumble away.

CY: That sounds like good preparations. Please consider adding a head lamp to your earthquake lights.

To prevent corrosion 'surprises' I replace the batteries in both every two years, and have my Google calendar set up to automatically remind me. Both lights are also dated with PostIt tape as a back up.

CY: What brand of battery do you like?

Of course I also have several other various lights scattered around for general use, including a robust little 'Pulsar' LED keychain light with momentary squeeze switch... perfect for quick peeks, and finding a 'real' light should push ever come to shove. The momentary switch works extremely well at preventing accidental pocket activations. Had it for 6 or 7 years... replaced the batteries twice IIRC.

CY: i have squeeze lights on the zipper pulls of my emergency bags. Wh ich remidns me, I've got to replace the squeeze lights one day soon.

What I'd like is battery technology that will (economically) allow flashlights and the like to be stowed corrosion free, long term in warm/hot environments... like car interiors.

CY: Not economical, but I wonder if the Energizer lithium batteries do well in hot climaes?

Erik

That sounds like wisdom. I'd have to read the package on those Advance. You're likelly right.

I've had both Duracell and Energizer batteries leak and ruin flashlights and other stuff. If it is really bad damage I pack it up and send it to them. Received a $20 check for my ruined Mini-Mag (back when they used to sell for that much) and another time they sent me a replacement battery operated

35mm slide viewer. If the damage is only minor I clean it up myself. These were batteries that still had a good charge and were within their "use by dates" (shrug).

So far I haven't had any serious problem with Rayovac. I always try to buy batteries that have a damaged device replacement warranties...

I have a few headlamps and other lights around I use and maintain regularly... my master plan for the Mini Mags is to insure initial light so I won't be stumbling through debris looking for more suitable light. The Mini Mags are located near where I am 90% of the time at home.

By the way, both Mini Mags were in place, and got a good bit of use following the 94 Northridge quake... our area of town was 'power free' for 4 days following that one. I carried a MM around 24/7 for months after Northridge.

I like Duracell, but have also used a lot of Radio Shack batteries with no problems... I think keeping them cool and fresh is the main key to reliable battery powered devices.