I need to cut the tops off of ~5 rusty steel drums to make an outdoor dry
firewood storage array. Got no electricity and I don't want to use a torch.
My rotator cuff is sore even when I'm not using it, so don't want to use a
chisel if it's avoidable.
Know of any method better or cheaper than a Vestil DD-9 Manual Drum
Deheader?
Ignoramus15426 fired this volley in
news:WNGdnSlsRLxahq_PnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
I'd use an air nibbler or air power shear, and just run the thing off
regulated CO2, if I didn't have a compressor available. I know you don't
have electricity, but you can borrow or rent a gas-powered compressor.
Lloyd
I've got a plug in Sawzall and a set of blades. Can haul a generator up
there, but might be happier spending ~$15/bbl for that Vestil DD-9. May
have use for it in the future, may only use it for this one job.
I made a few temporary firewood drying shelters from 40"x48" pallet
floors and end walls.
The roofs are corrugated galvy sheets, tied down to avoid puncturing
them so they can be reused.
The diagonals that support the ends are $0.51, 4' 2x4s from the Home
Depot cull cart, PT if they have any.
The Northern Tool blade looks pretty much the same as the Vestil one. I'm
inclined to try it. A couple of users got it to work OK(might have been N.
T. employees).
I finally cut open a couple of barrels. Pain in the ass.
The Northern Tool product functioned well, but only was easy to use if you
advanced it ~1/2" on each stroke. On a 55gal drum with 6' circumference
that is ~144 strokes. Loosening the knurled knob to move to the new
position and then retightening before the stroke made this a slow operation.
Reminded me of using a Russian can opener to get into an surplus ammo can.
Woosies! You take a 18" pipe wrench and an 8# hammer. You put the
wrench jaw on the inside top of the lid, handle pointing outward. You
hit it a couple of times until it punctures the top. You move over just
enough to keep your cut going. You repeat until the top falls out.
Do I have to tell you everything?
That's the way we used to do it in the oilfield.
If you were a real neat freak, you would lay the barrel down, and pound
the ragged edge flat. But, if a guy was real good at it, that would not
be necessary, as the finished edge would be machine smooth. ;-)
Steve
Dunno if they're even still on the market , but years ago it was suggested
to stick a kotex in your jacket as padding . I was sighting in my
muzzleloader a couple of weeks ago and I'm as skinny as a rail - it was
beating my shoulder up pretty badly . So I folded up a sweatshirt and draped
it over my shoulder . Worked great .
On the drum beheading , I used an air hammer with the chisel blade like
they use in body shops . Noisy as it gets , but minimal effort and quick too
.
I can take a 12 gauge shooting 1oz slugs all day as long as I'm standing up.
The Mosin-Nagant I can only hit a target while prone. Must be holding it
wrong because it hurt. Wearing just a T-shirt it broke the skin over my
collarbone.
I'm sewing the front part of a life preserver onto a vest before I go out
again.
Front right part of this:
I used a forked chisel with an air hammer to dehead several drums. The
tool worked great. And it should have since that's what it was made
for. But it leaves a very sharp edge that points down toward the
bottom of the barrell. So it's not visible and goes unnoticed until
you grab the barrell to move it and end up cutting the pads on your
fingers. So now I need to figure out a way to remove the nearly razor
sharp edge. Since the edge lays almost flat against the inside of the
barrell it's hard to get at to dull. I may end up prying the edge away
from the inside of the barrell and then sanding it away with sanding
discs. I used to fill the barrells with water and use the plasma
cutter and I'm going back to that method.
Eric
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