Manual drum deheader

I need to cut the tops off of ~5 rusty steel drums to make an outdoor dry firewood storage array. Got no electricity and I don't want to use a torch. My rotator cuff is sore even when I'm not using it, so don't want to use a chisel if it's avoidable.
Know of any method better or cheaper than a Vestil DD-9 Manual Drum Deheader?
(Amazon.com product link shortened)79009360&sr=8-1&keywords=Vestil+DD-9+Manual+Drum+Deheader

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Air chisel and a gas powered compressor. Art

On 9/12/2013 1:23 PM, Stumpy wrote:
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Got a buddy w/ cordless Sawzall?

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I've got a plug in Sawzall and a set of blades. Can haul a generator up there, but might be happier spending ~$15/bbl for that Vestil DD-9. May have use for it in the future, may only use it for this one job.

I would use a torch. Fill drums with water almost to the top, if you are concerned with them exploding.
i
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I'd use an air nibbler or air power shear, and just run the thing off regulated CO2, if I didn't have a compressor available. I know you don't have electricity, but you can borrow or rent a gas-powered compressor.
Lloyd

On Thursday, September 12, 2013 2:23:41 PM UTC-4, Stumpy wrote:
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How about pretty much the same tool, but for 20 bucks? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drum-Deheader-Tool-for-55-gallon-steel-barrel-Drum-Opener-/271264266664?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f289c39a8

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Price is right, but I think that is just a bung wrench to unscrew the caps. Don't see any blade to cut off the whole upper end.

On Thursday, September 12, 2013 4:10:59 PM UTC-4, Stumpy wrote:
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I see what you mean. Well, there are more on ebay, or there's this: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200317597_200317597

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There you go, little bit better price. Only $10 shipping.

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However, note the bad reviews!

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The Northern Tool blade looks pretty much the same as the Vestil one. I'm inclined to try it. A couple of users got it to work OK(might have been N. T. employees).

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I finally cut open a couple of barrels. Pain in the ass.
The Northern Tool product functioned well, but only was easy to use if you advanced it ~1/2" on each stroke. On a 55gal drum with 6' circumference that is ~144 strokes. Loosening the knurled knob to move to the new position and then retightening before the stroke made this a slow operation.
Reminded me of using a Russian can opener to get into an surplus ammo can.

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I use either a torch..or a Milwaukee Sawzall . Once you cut a slot with a torch or a drill..it goes pretty quickly.
Gunner

On 10/20/2013 4:00 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
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Woosies! You take a 18" pipe wrench and an 8# hammer. You put the wrench jaw on the inside top of the lid, handle pointing outward. You hit it a couple of times until it punctures the top. You move over just enough to keep your cut going. You repeat until the top falls out.
Do I have to tell you everything?
That's the way we used to do it in the oilfield.
If you were a real neat freak, you would lay the barrel down, and pound the ragged edge flat. But, if a guy was real good at it, that would not be necessary, as the finished edge would be machine smooth. ;-)
Steve

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Hah!
I was out shooting 7.62x54r in a Mosin-Nagant with a steel buttplate for the first time this weekend - may never swing a hammer again.

Stumpy wrote:
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Dunno if they're even still on the market , but years ago it was suggested to stick a kotex in your jacket as padding . I was sighting in my muzzleloader a couple of weeks ago and I'm as skinny as a rail - it was beating my shoulder up pretty badly . So I folded up a sweatshirt and draped it over my shoulder . Worked great . On the drum beheading , I used an air hammer with the chisel blade like they use in body shops . Noisy as it gets , but minimal effort and quick too .

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I can take a 12 gauge shooting 1oz slugs all day as long as I'm standing up. The Mosin-Nagant I can only hit a target while prone. Must be holding it wrong because it hurt. Wearing just a T-shirt it broke the skin over my collarbone.
I'm sewing the front part of a life preserver onto a vest before I go out again.
Front right part of this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-USCG-U-S-Coast-Guard-Billy-Pugh-WVO-100-life-vest-preserver-jacket-/170974264462?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27cedc3c8e
Or this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-STEARNS-LIFE-JACKET-VEST-SIZE-MEDIUM-ADULT-42-44-TYPE-3-PFD-RARE-/200963914635?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eca61fb8b
Grafted onto a vest sort of like this: (Amazon.com product link shortened)

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I used a forked chisel with an air hammer to dehead several drums. The tool worked great. And it should have since that's what it was made for. But it leaves a very sharp edge that points down toward the bottom of the barrell. So it's not visible and goes unnoticed until you grab the barrell to move it and end up cutting the pads on your fingers. So now I need to figure out a way to remove the nearly razor sharp edge. Since the edge lays almost flat against the inside of the barrell it's hard to get at to dull. I may end up prying the edge away from the inside of the barrell and then sanding it away with sanding discs. I used to fill the barrells with water and use the plasma cutter and I'm going back to that method. Eric

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7' of det cord works well.