OT building garage

e:yes

I am needing extra garage space. I have been thinking of building a pole barn type garage across form my attached garage. The problem is money right now. I can only afford a gravel floor. I would like to complete this project myself with maybe some help lifting and things from my brother. My thinking is 24 feet wide by 32 feet long. (I can get pre made trusses at 24 feet.)

Is it ok to have a gravel floor? Right now, the lot where the building would go is about 10 inches different from the highest point to the lowest point.

Also, I read somewhere of a construction method I had never heard of before. You would gig holes just like for poles in a pole barn but you would put posts in there that only stuck out a foot or two. You would put purlins similar to what you put on the top of pole barn posts around these lower posts. Then, conventional stick framing similar to a house was used on top of this. I dont know of anyone around here that builds that way but it seemed interesting and easier for a man to do himself because htere were no tall poles to deal with and fiddle with getting perfectly square and the walls could be built in sections.

I live out in farm country and codes I dont believe will be an issue.

Reply to
stryped
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I would prefer a dirt floor over gravel myself. A packed dirt floor is actually not a bad surface to work on and believe it or not can actually be swept "clean". Gravel is dirty. It will also cause corrosion with anything metallic that remains in contact for extended periods of time.

It's really not that hard to set a pole and get it square. Depending on your sidewall height.

Please check on this. You will most likely need at minimum a building permit. If it is an "ag" building you can get exempted from a lot of building codes. Any plumbing or wiring will still need to meet code.

At the very least, check what codes would be applicable if you were not exempt. Take note of them and respect their intention. I agree many codes seem petty and silly, but they are usually there for a pretty good reason if you get past how trivial they might seem.

JW

Reply to
jw

I would suggest you build it with an eye toward filling it in with concrete later when you may be able to afford it. this mostly relates to sill placement

You may not be required legally, but unless it's a big hassle it's worthwhile to build to code (and document it) for safety and insurance reasons. I'm in the same boat here, no permits or codes required, but if something Bad happens and I'm negotiating with State Farm for a settlement - or defending a lawsuit - I'd want to be able to show my property met the established standards.

Reply to
Rex B

I'd agree with another poster that you should build with the intention of putting in concrete "someday" With 6" of gravel and 4" of concrete, you need to have door sills and door heights that work correctly.

Your construction method of short posts and standard stick frame above is really just using a wood post foundation. You could substitute poured concrete posts just as easily.

A big issue on the floor is frost protection. Where I live, buildings require 4' frost footings. Anything less and the building may heave. An unheated pole barn needs to have the posts down 4' to keep it square. Any concrete in this building would need to 'float' wiht the frost. Around here, annual trips for concrete can be up to 2". Really raises havoc with getting water to drain off.

I'd suggest pure pole barn construction. My local supplier lists all materials for a 24'x27'x8' including large door, small door, and window for $3359. Heavier materials, 24'x36'x10', at $4600 Set it 10" high, add concrete when you feel rich.

D> e:yes

Reply to
RoyJ

Do a google search on "pole barn stryped" to find that this is a troll.

Please don't feed the trolls!

Reply to
Pete Bergstrom

x-no-archive:yes

I live in southern kentucky. It rarely gets below freezing but it is possible.

I asked someone last year if I could have a slab pured and build stick framing on top of that. He said I would need a fotter which dramatically increased the cost. Why would I have to have a footer?

Would the short post method using concrete instead of posts work well?

Reply to
stryped

OK, I'm curious. Where do you live that you don't need a permit to build a structure and don't have inspections to make sure you follow the building code?

Steve.

Reply to
SteveF

Texas, not in city limits.

Reply to
Rex B

Many townships(ie rural) areas dont' require inspections on ag buildings. I don't know of many areas that don't require a permit of some sort. That permit may amount to "yep, I'm building something and putting it right about here", but there is at least an acknowledgement that you are doing something.

Ag building is loosely defined as a building for supporting ag related operations(machinery storage, cattle shelter, etc). If you park your car there, or use if for anything that could be construed as "personal" it is no longer an ag building.

JW

Reply to
jw

"RoyJ" wrote

I'd like to know who your supplier is. I'm considering two different size polebarns. One 40 x 80 x 14 ft sidewalls or a 50 x 100 x 14 ft sidewalls. I'm north of Minneapolis. The quotes I'm getting now are over $30,000 on a level site and not much of a discount if I put it up myself; maybe 1/3 discount. It still seems high to me, for a polebarn, and they tell me prices are going up. I've talked with Morton, Lester, Wick and Northland.

Any recommendations for a different supplier?

Relz

Reply to
Relz

an excellent choice!

Reply to
Richard Lamb

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is showing a 40'x 63'x14' with 2 12'x12 overhead doors at $14k plus delivery. Steel is precut in Wisconsin, delvievered to your site. Oops, that price is no longer available on line, wasn't a sale price so wo't change too much. I haven't used them for a pole barn, no idea how well they deliver what they are supposed to. I do use them for standard remodeling (sheetrock and 2x lumber), their prices are pretty good.

Relz wrote:

Reply to
RoyJ

x-no-archive:yes

Do you have overhangs on the front or sides?

Was thinking of putting up as I can afford, maybe puting posts and roof up and using as a carport this year then next year finishing sides and front and putting concrete.

Reply to
stryped

yJ" wrote

Do your math, it looks comparable to me. Least within regional variation

Reply to
yourname

I've been lurking here for a couple of weeks, but haven't posted yet.

I'm going to try and save you some trouble. Just setting your posts and putting a roof on it is a poor idea, it vill be VERY unstable. Pole barns really firm up when the sheeting is applied.

Reply to
Gordon

Reply to
RoyJ

I've seen local suppliers that would be very competitive with that.

South Texas area.

Reply to
Richard Lamb

Beg to differ with you. I started building my 30 X 50 Pole Barn in the summer of 2004. By the time Hurricane Charley hit I had in place 16 ea

16' 6"X6" PT Poles, buried 4' deep in tamped clay fill. I had nailed a 2"X8" form around the bottom of the poles to serve as the form for a mono-slab. the poles were trimmed at 10' above the future slab. Along both sides of the tops of the 6"X6" poles I placed 2"X10" X10' stringers nailed to the poles with 6ea 16D nails and 2ea 3" lag bolt per pole on both sides of the poles that formed the 50' length. To these double stringers I set 26 trusses, 2' on center with dropped gable ends. Both ends of all the trusses were attached with hurricane straps, 32 nails each strap, on each side of both stringers. This gave me a roof rectangle area of 34' X54'. I sheeted the trusses with 1/2" plywood and covered the plywood with 30# felt. That is when the problems began, 1st Hurricane Charley hit.... about 3 days after I finished the 30# felt. No damage to the pole barn except for the loss of the 30# felt, but about $29,000 damage to my house, tile roof was most of that. I replaced the 30# felt on the pole barn after a couple of weeks, and sure enough, along comes Hurricane Francis and tears the 30# felt off.... no damage to the pole barn though. I didn't have time to replace the 30# felt by the time Hurricane Ivan got to the Florida Peninsula, and Ivan by passed my neighborhood. About a week after Hurricane Ivan missed me I replaced the 30# felt and just like clock work... here comes Hurricane Jeanne, right over the pole barn, taking the 30# felt with her. Again no damage to the pole barn. Well being a logical thinker I finally caught on to the fact that installation of 30# felt causes Hurricanes, so I quit putting the felt on until I could get the slab poured and then put on the 30# felt and the shingles at the same time! So then during the winter and spring of 2005 I put in 2"X6" stud walls and covered them with 1/2" sheeting, and nailed up some Felt backed wire for stucco.. and got the stucco on before the hurricane season! I did have to tweak the walls with come-alongs to square everything before pouring the slab, but that was the only structural problem I had from 3 Hurricanes, 2 of the eyes passed over my house and one of the eyes passed 16 miles west of me.
Reply to
Pat

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