Precision anchoring into concrete?s

wrote:


dowels
Chuckle!
Harold
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On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 01:03:40 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"

Hey Harold,
What's funny?? Did I miss something?? Dave's absolutely correct!! I wandered off from the original thread, and I should have initiated this properly from the beginning, and Dave is correct to pick me up on it. I'll try not to let it happen again, and I'm sure now that you and Dave will do the same.
Take care.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
ps....How did your "Turkey Day" go? After ours, I ALWAYS just love those turkey sandwiches smothered in cranberry sauce and salt-and-pepper!! I could eat that for a week!!
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refrain
Heh! That's expecting a lot from a simple, old, retired machinist! I've a hunch that I'll continue the course, talking with the "family" about most anything or everything. :-)

Susan really outdid herself. It's just the two of us, but she goes all out. Small turkey, dressed with the traditional dressing the Vordos/Zaharias clan always prepared, and the rest of the 'fixins'. We ate like pigs! Followed up with a second meal on Friday, every bit as good as the first. All in all, a great couple of days. I'm not much on holidays, but I really like Thanksgiving. I gather yours was as nice as ours.
You're lookin' good, Brian!
Harold
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Hey Dave,
It was of course myself that failed to follow etiquette and do "the proper thing". So sorry!! It developed from a legitimate topic, and I just got carried away. I'll follow your lead from now on. I'm a bit surprised that you didn't do that though at this first opportunity! Why not?
Take care.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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Dr. Butter wrote:

Its always difficult to measure, mark out, and drill concrete anchors - hammer drills will wander, just a touch....(enough to stuff alignement...)
What I have done is:-
Assemble the tracks as far as possible, even if you have to tack weld struts to it. then, lay it out on the floor. Drill one hole, insert anchor, bolt down. Then, drift the assembly into position, use the holes in the base as guides, drill one at the diagonal opposite corner. Bolt down. Work your way around the assembly - the general idea is to use the assembly itself as the drilling guide.
There are chemical fixing methods (some sort of epoxy?) but I have never used them, so don't know how much lattitude you would ave in adjustment....
Andrew VK3BFA.
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On 23 Nov 2006 21:28:06 -0800, "Andrew VK3BFA"

Use the wedge style anchor bolts where the hole drilled is the same diameter as the threads, so the mounting holes don't have to be oversized to drill through them. This avoids stacks of washers that are weaker than the baseplate.
And you can tack-weld short pieces of heavy pipe over the baseplate holes to act as a drilling guide - it will keep the holes vertical and prevent them from wandering if the drill hits a rock in the concrete. When you get the holes sunk you can break off the guides and clean up the plate before final mounting.

The big advantage of epoxy anchoring is if your drilled hole wanders to one side a bit to where wedge anchors wouldn't work without going to the next larger size - you can expand the hole in the proper direction (within reason) and the epoxy will make up the difference. And you have time to make sure the bolts are in the right place before the epoxy sets up.
The popular ones are two-part epoxies - Simpson and Hilti both make "caulking gun" style epoxy dispensers that spit out even proportions of the resins as needed with little waste, and have the ribbon-twist mixers in the extension tube.
There are also epoxies in glass capsules - you mix the epoxy in a blind hole by crushing the capsules and stirring around the rod in the hole. I don't trust that they'll always mix properly or have enough in the hole to make a good bond - with the gun epoxies you can always pull the rod and squirt in some more...
You drill the holes, clean the holes out thoroughly with a wire brush and blower/vacuum, insert epoxy, and then slide in lengths of threaded rod. If you are anchoring into hollow concrete block they make sleeves of steel screening that will help hold the epoxy at the back of the block until cured into a plug. After the epoxy has had curing time to set, you bolt down the equipment and cut off any excess rod.
--<< Bruce >>--
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"There are also epoxies in glass capsules - you mix the epoxy in a blind hole by crushing the capsules and stirring around the rod in the hole. I don't trust that they'll always mix properly or have enough in the hole to make a good bond - with the gun epoxies you can always pull the rod and squirt in some more.."
The boss deceided we would put our track down on a piece of 5/16 sheet and anchor this with some lightweight anchors. If and when the whole thing is run into with the forttrucks they will tear up and hopefully nothing else. I heard a story about these glass capsules full of epoxy. At General Motors some engineer wanted to see how strong it was so they anchored a bolt into the floor with this. Let it set ,and then used an overhead crane attached to the bolt to see what happened. What happened was it tore a chunk of concrete out of the floor about 4 feet in diameter. I guess the epoxy works.
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