You will find that the prop shaft is most likely .750 inch per foot
taper. However, check it first. I used to make prop shafts on a
regular basis. Most were .75:12 but every now and then I'd get a
IIRC The Machinery's handbook has a procedure that uses two
different sizes of ball bearings [one to fit at the top and the
other to fit at the bottom of the taper] and a depth mike. This
assumes the bore is in reasonable condition, and that you have a
good square surface [to the bore] on at least one side of the
Unka George (George McDuffee)
The arbitrary rule of a just and enlightened prince is always bad.
His virtues are the most dangerous and the surest form of seduction:
they lull a people imperceptibly into the habit of loving, respecting,
and serving his successor, whoever that successor may be,
no matter how wicked or stupid.
Denis Diderot (1713-84), French philosopher.
Refutation of Helvétius (written 1773-76;
first published 1875; repr. in Selected Writings,
ed. by Lester G. Crocker, 1966).
--Thanks gang; worked it out with a really simple formula I found
after a little googling: C/(A-B) where C is the length front to back of the
hub, A is the large i.d. and B is the small i.d. I got a nice, clean number:
16 so I plan to put a dial indicator on the compound slide, mount a test bar
and turn the compound until I get a change of 1/2 of 1/16 over a distance of
one inch; i.e. equivalent to the taper of one side. Then I can lock the
saddle and crank the compound to get the taper for the bushing I'm making.
We've done that to make adapters to fit snowmobile engine shafts. Set it
up, bore out the taper, do the blueing, never seem to get it quite right
the first time. Only off a couple thousandths but that is enough to get
wobble at high speeds