Ring roller drawings and such

As someone requested in an earlier thread I've posted a couple of drawings and some assembly instructions for my ring roller project. Let me know if I've missed anything.

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Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Reply to
Keith Marshall
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Very nice job, Keith, both on the roller and the details.

Reply to
Wild_Bill

I like the design. As simple as possible but no simpler. I bookmarked your web site. I might want to build one some day.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

" snipped-for-privacy@krl.org" fired this volley in news:54fc23fe- snipped-for-privacy@e2g2000vbe.googlegroups.com:

Dan, when I read a statement like that, all I can think is, "How _could_ anything be simpler than 'as simple as possible'?"

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Maybe not simpler but cheaper, I use either brass water pipe or welding-rod roller bearings running on Grade 8 bolt axles.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

It is often attributed to Albert Einstein and he did say something close. I think the idea is suppose to be that if it were made simpler, it would not work, or not work well. Or something........

Anyway the design does not have any doodads that are not needed and looks like it would be very straightforward to build.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

On Sun, 29 Mar 2009 23:24:31 -0400, the infamous "Keith Marshall" scrawled the following:

Yo! (waving hand)

Thanks, Keith. Building one is much preferable to buying one.

Questions:

What clearance are you using for the base-to-lift platform?

Are the slides greased, or do they need it?

Do you have plans to electrify it using a gear motor?

Reply to
Larry Jaques

You're welcome and I agree!

If I understand what you're asking, it's 8" from the top of the base to the bottom of the lift platform. The jack I used is 8" when fully retracted.

They're not but it would probably be a good idea. Or just a light oil. I think it would help the lift platform drop back down more easily more than anything.

I don't but the guy that bought the 2nd one does. He told me before I built it that he wants to put a jeep rear end on it to gear it way down and then motorize it. Seems like a bit of overkill to me but it's his now so he can do whatever he wants with it. :-)

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Reply to
Keith Marshall

Thanks!

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Reply to
Keith Marshall

Thank you!

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Reply to
Keith Marshall

On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 03:02:41 -0400, the infamous "Keith Marshall" scrawled the following:

So we can see. ;)

No, I was referring to clearance between the vertical guides and horizontal lift platform pieces, the sliding clearances.

I was thinking wear and ease of use. Swipe all rubbing surfaces with a bit of moly wheel bearing grease before assembly for a thin, highly slick surface. It'll help keep the paint on and prevent rust, too.

Jeep? Yeah, way overkill. 1+ horsepower gear motor'd prolly do it.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

horizontal lift platform pieces, the sliding clearances.

Reply to
Keith Marshall

On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 12:21:05 -0400, the infamous "Keith Marshall" scrawled the following:

I thought that (Government Work) might be how it went together.

Bueno.

IIWY, I'd do it now before it gets used much. It'll save that wear which would come from scraping and trapping metal scrapings. Remind yourself of that night on the beach with the girl but without the blanket. Keeping sand (or swarf) out of intimate places really makes a difference on sliding surfaces.

What? You don't have a PortaPower? Shameful! ;) (Damn, but they're handy!)

One last question: Why didn't you bore for bearings and use them in all the rollers? I'd think that this would make the difference between a smooth-working tubing roller and one which works you.

I got a workout on a metal machine today. After carrying a truck-bed full of compost onto the lady's new garden area, I got the 6hp front-tined tilling beastie down off the truck by myself and let it wrestle me around the clayey soil -slope- for an hour, then I wrestled it back up onto the truck by myself, taking the -very- last ounce of my energy. I'm renting a rear-tined beastie with its own trailer the next time I get suckered into tilling.

-- You can't do anything about the length of your life, but you _can_ do something about its width and depth. -- Evan Esar

Reply to
Larry Jaques

How true! :-)

Actually I do and I even have one of the short-travel rams that's really strong. It bent it out well enough but it wouldn't stay and I was out of gas for my torch and couldn't heat it up. This was the unit shown in the pictures on my site and it has the wider side plates. The place where I buy my metal didn't have any 3/8" that was 8" wide so I went with some 1/2". It was less likely to bend than the 3/8" but more likely to stay where it bent to. :-)

I don't really think it would make all that much difference. The real work is the bending of the metal and you can tell that by how far you jack it for each pass. :-)

Actually I'm sure there are quite a few things I could have done to make it better but for this particular use it just wasn't worth it. They were both looking for something quick and cheap to get the job done.

One thing I did do that probably helps a little though is to turn down the ends of the rollers so that they look like they have a 1 1/2" washer on the ends. That should be better than the entire diameter of the roller rubbing on the plates.

I have a bad back so I avoid heavy lifting if possible. Plus my son loves doing that sort of thing so we call him whenever the wife needs the garden tilled.

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Reply to
Keith Marshall

On Wed, 1 Apr 2009 02:53:01 -0400, the infamous "Keith Marshall" scrawled the following:

Given the pressures, I'd figure that it could make a lot of difference. I mean, even HF puts bearings in, which hints heavily along that line.

Do yourself a favor: make some rollers with bearings (and then let us know. ;)

Yes, for as long as the built-in washers last, anyway, though there's likely not too much side pressure on them.

I wish I had a -crew- for that sort of thing.

-- You can't do anything about the length of your life, but you _can_ do something about its width and depth. -- Evan Esar

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Someone taunted:

Agri-Supply Company of Micro NC has a porta-power setup in their new catalog, for (IIRC) $149, with pretty much all of the toys.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Reply to
Keith Marshall

On Wed, 1 Apr 2009 11:33:41 -0400, the infamous "Keith Marshall" scrawled the following:

I guess I misread that first post, thinking that you'd made one for someone else and then one for yourself. Too bad.

I'll bet the second one went much more quickly, and a third might take even less time.

-- You can't do anything about the length of your life, but you _can_ do something about its width and depth. -- Evan Esar

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I have reasonably convenient access to the 1st one if needed.

True.

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Reply to
Keith Marshall

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