Small Drill Chucks - Your Favorite?

Agreed -- but in this newsgroup, "import" seems to be shorthand for "of Chinese, Taiwanese, or (sometimes) Indian manufacture", so in that sense, its use was correct.

It seems to be used to indicate lower quality -- metallurgy, finish, accuracy, and similar characteristics.

I'm not sure whether people would consider Bison (or other products from Poland) to be an import or not using these criteria. :-) I would not, as the quality seems to be significantly above the other locales, but that is a personal opinion, and may not be shared by the newsgroup.

I tend to not think of my Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC as an import, in spite of the fact that it *is* from Austria, and this fact becomes

*very* obvious when I work on the electronics.

Nor do I consider my boring-facing head, which was made in France and re-branded by Enco some years ago to be an "import" in the local usage of the term.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols
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What's it worth to you? What configuration arbor, and what size hole?

michael

Reply to
michael

Ok, It's a J0 taper on a .50" straight shank arbor. Hole thru is .125" +/- .010". You can even shorten the overall length of the straight part to roughly half (length winds up being aprox. 1.25"). I can supply the arbor if you wish.

I don't need one now, but I seriously can see needing a few more in the coming months. What would you charge for 3, 5 and 10 units? Total price to include one way shipping from you to me (Mt. View, CA). If you'd rather supply the arbors, please quote accordingly and let me know.

Reply to
skuke

I'll email with details.

mike

Reply to
michael

I think you'd be happy with the Rohm. I really doubt that you'd notice any difference between it and an Albrecht running .040" drills in a mill-drill.

Sure looks like it to me. Compare the ratios of the hole from which the jaws project to overall size in the pictures.

>
Reply to
Don Foreman

This is a good deal for both parties. Trade with Gunner, then replace the 1/2" Albrecht with an import. The Albrecht precision is more important in the smaller chuck. I have two 1/2" import Albrecht clones (one for the mill, another for the lathe) that I've been very satisfied with. I got them from Grizzley, I think with

1/2" straight-shank arbors, for about $50 -- but this was some years ago.

Re #1 morse arbors: "easily removed" is a matter of having the wedges. Ask Gunner to remove them before shipping.

Reply to
Don Foreman

How about an alternative. Use a erickson 300 series collet chuck with

1/8 collet. It has a 1/2 inch straight shank and somes with through hole. It will probalby be cheaper too.
Reply to
Charles A. Sherwood

Thanks. Good idea except I'm holding .010" wires right now and the sizes will vary from ~.005" and up.

Reply to
skuke

They do make different size collets!

chuck

Reply to
Charles A. Sherwood

So...find me one that goes down to .005". Hey, I'll make it easier for you, let's double the diameter.

Reply to
skuke

The collet set for my Levin lathe starts at .004 and increments .004 larger for each collet. Actually, the first collet is .003937 and subsequent ones increase ar the rate of .003937. And yes, I've used the smallest for paying work. Cheers, Wise Ass Eric

Reply to
Eric R Snow

Actually, I knew Levin lathe collets ran about that small! I didn't have numbers, just general knowledge. I too was being a wise ass with my challenge because earlier in the thread, I already said I was holding .010" wire. I was pretty confident there was no such beast as a .010" Erikson collet :-)

How are the Levin collets held in the lathe? Collet nut like the Erikson et al? Drawn in from the rear (5C)? Is it a single angle, double, or more? Are the collets split from both ends and close fairly parallel independant of size? I was just wondering if I *could* adapt a Levin collet to the fixture.

I know the downside is that a collet and nut assembly would be too slow, hence the albrecht chuck we're using. So a draw type closer would be better and faster. Minimizing TIR is VERY important.

Thanks,

Reply to
skuke

The collets are similar to the 5C. The length to diameter ratio is different. These small collets are longer compared to the diameter than a 5C. Derbyshire makes and sells instrument lathes too and they are cheaper than Levin. Their collets have a runout not to exceed .0002. I don't have a current catalog but their number is 508 842

8319. The collets are drawn into the tapered spindle nose just like a 5C. These collets could easily be adapted to your fixture. If I was doing it I'd use air to pull it back. Or, the collet can be fixed and the tapered spindle nose pushed forward by air. You could buy an air collet closer from MSC for about $200.00. They sell one made by Eagle Rock, MSC part # 09148255. I have one of these that I've used for at least ten years now. It is a good unit. I am certain that a taper adapter could be made and then any collet smaller than 5C could be used. The advantage with this closer is that the collet never mover so holding a dead length is easy. You should be able to hold position within .0002 in all three axes. This assumes that the collet is not spinning. If it spins, you could still use the above fixture with a rotary union. Or, you could make your own lever or air drawbar. If you are making lots of these parts then an air actuated drawbar is great. Cheers, Eric
Reply to
Eric R Snow

Erickson makes a 1/32 collet and they claim a full 1/32 range for each collet so I'm reasonably sure it will go down to .010 Look up Erickson DA300 series collets.

BTW: loose the attitude. We are trying to help you. If you were not behaving like a jerk, I would actually pull my set out and try it.

chuck

Reply to
Charles A. Sherwood

Hi Machine man - I have my eye on that one. I've seen and used the ball bearing types and really like them a ton.

Thanks for your help. I think that I will possibly get this one "next time around" while going with the keyless one now.

I certainly have learned alot about drill chucks doing the "whats best to buy" comparison.

I do have an old jacobs "multicraft" which is the right size (about

1.5 long) for what I need, but probably not the right quality. It has the funky thread mount that I can't find an arbor (1/2 straight dia) for. It looks like these are for ahnd drills anyways.

Regards,

SMA

Reply to
Sean-Michael Adams

Hi there - the spinde bore is R8. I'm trying to use something that preserves as much of the spindle to workpiece space as possible.

I don't have a set of collets yet (using endmill holders).

I'm not sure I know what you mean by drill drivers - are they like bushings or something? The fewer interfaces I have between spinde and cutting tool, the better - can you elaborate on the drill drivers?

Thanks,

Sean

Reply to
Sean-Michael Adams

Hi Paul -

I think that I will be going this route. It looks like a reasonable answer for the moment. It looks like the Rohm 1/4 & arbor will run about 67 bucks. This I can live with.

Thanks for the advice.

SMA

Reply to
Sean-Michael Adams

Thanks for the offer, but I am pretty attached to the large chuck. It will come in very handy when I do any plate work. Right now i'm losing about 3 inches to the vice and another 4 to the drill chuck and then a bit to the drill and forget about the workpiece.

My hopes are to someday graduate to a "real" knee mill, but for now the small but useful HF mini-mill will have to do (and it has done a fine job for me so far). Once I graduate, this drill chuck will be a godsend.

Regards,

SMA

Reply to
Sean-Michael Adams

Hey Chuck,

First of all, it's lose, not loose, the attitude.

Second, I understand that most folks in this NG just wanna help. I appreciate that. Their are many lifetimes worth of useful information available from the participants and I try and provide useful information when I'm able. However, I litle patience for the OT banter, and wrong, incorrect and useless information. It is a waste of my time and wrong info sends me in search of a product, for example, that won't work. Yeah, shit happens and people make mistakes. No worries in those instances. But YOU, however, are convinced I can use use an Erickson DA300 series collet to hold a .005" and .010" wire! And, you tell me this without having ever done it!

Third, I will post a thorough public apology to you on this NG when you tell me (I'll take your word as an honorable gentleman) that you are able to successfully hold a .005" wire with your Erickson DA300 series 1/32 collet and provide the model/part number of that collet. You must hold the wire as a collet is intended. ie. the wire should be concentric with the collet and not pinched between the "flats". You should be able to pull on the wire once held with ~5-8 pounds of force and not have any slippage.

Your court, bud.

Reply to
skuke

I share your pain. It happens here everyday.

I think you have the wrong perspective about new groups. I look at them as a source for ideas; Not for proven solutions. I provided you with an idea that has high probability of working. A little reseach on your end will tell you if my suggestion will solve your problem. Perhaps just a phone call to erickson tech support. As is common with newgroups; You need to weed out the good suggestions from the bad ones.

From my perspective, You are requesting me to suggest a solution, test the solution to your specs and then provide you with part numbers so you can order it. Sounds to me like you need to hire a consultant !

chuck

Reply to
Charles A. Sherwood

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