This is a 700R4 ... I'll have to check the vacuum system diagrams to see what the original setup was , there may have been a thermo switch in there somewhere . Lockup will be more important for trips should I use the truck . Around here in the "mountains" of the southern Ozarks it's not likely to be locked up all that much - but I do want it functional .
... Around here in the "mountains" of the southern Ozarks it's not likely to be locked up all that much - but I do want it functional .
-- Snag
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My 2000 CRV has a transmission control feature I don't quite understand that gives good engine braking down steep hills. I suspect it might be downshift plus lockup. I haven't heard the loud ABS pump engage for it.
This describes a more modern off-road version; mine functions at 40-50MPH.
Newer CRV models are more stylish and less practical so I'm looking elsewhere for an AWD replacement if/when mine breaks beyond repair.
early 400 R4 setup uses vac switch and brake light switch external to the trans and has a 4th gear clutch applied switch and a momentary 4/3 downshift switch inside the trans
Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which will prevent lockup on a colt transmission - and if defective COULD prevent lockup - perios. SOME 700R4 traanys ahve the switch, some don't. SOME have the 3/4 switch, some do not. Only way to know is to drop the pan. Also, some have one wire (self grounded) solenoid, others have 2 wire. One wire solenoid USUALLY has external 4th gear pressure switch and will require a relay to enable it or you risk cooking the switch (if it is not a heavy enough switch)
I'll check with the guy that built it this week . It's possible that the rebuilt converter he supplied doesn't have lockup , I understand that some don't but that may be an aftermarket thing .
Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which will prevent lockup on a colt transmission - and if defective COULD prevent lockup - perios. SOME 700R4 traanys ahve the switch, some don't. SOME have the 3/4 switch, some do not. Only way to know is to drop the pan. Also, some have one wire (self grounded) solenoid, others have 2 wire. One wire solenoid USUALLY has external 4th gear pressure switch and will require a relay to enable it or you risk cooking the switch (if it is not a heavy enough switch)
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Look for a DC rating on the switch. DC current is more difficult to break than AC because AC goes to zero between cycles while DC doesn't and can continue to arc like welding, especially with inductance such as a solenoid in the circuit. The same applies to relays, circuit breakers and fuses. A DC voltage rating may be much lower than the AC rating. My lab equipment can test them and several 12V car audio circuit breakers have failed after tripping correctly once.
I'll check with the guy that built it this week . It's possible that the rebuilt converter he supplied doesn't have lockup , I understand that some don't but that may be an aftermarket thing Snag
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Torque converters developed the simpler fluid couplings of the late 1930's and were highly improved for WW2 airplane engine superchargers, to isolate crankshaft power stroke vibrations from the high flywheel inertia of the compressor rotor.
Ummmm Jim ...
I found out today that basically all OE TC's that fit 700R4 trannies are capable of lockup . I also learned that the tick coming from mine is most likely to be internal since there are no loose or too long bolts in there . And with the flywheel cover off it is a lot LOUDER . As I said I'll be talking to the shop that built the trans later this week . I know for sure it ain't lockin' up because the tach needle tracks with throttle instead of with speedo . I was going to do it today , but we were out of buns - the grandson is up for a visit and wants brats-n-tots for dinner - and I'm the baker . The last batch - hot dog buns - has about 13 minutes left on the timer ...
Ummmm Jim ...
I found out today that basically all OE TC's that fit 700R4 trannies are capable of lockup . I also learned that the tick coming from mine is most likely to be internal since there are no loose or too long bolts in there . And with the flywheel cover off it is a lot LOUDER . As I said I'll be talking to the shop that built the trans later this week . I know for sure it ain't lockin' up because the tach needle tracks with throttle instead of with speedo . ... Snag
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I post this stuff because I've been searching discussion groups for information and finding mainly scattered snippets directed at the questioner that don't help explain the big picture I'm looking for.
I shoulda realized ...
I shoulda realized ...
-- Snag
----------------------------- For example the Jackery 290 claims to have an MPPT controller but monitoring the charging current and voltage doesn't show signs of one, it looks more like a current-limited step-down converter that doesn't hunt for the maximum power point. I don't want to experiment with it until I have a good idea of what it can or can't accept for input. Their phone support site naturally isn't staffed with engineers and I haven't found evidence of user experimentation beyond measuring run times. One snippet was a mention in the FAQ of 200W solar panels being acceptable, without explanation of what it would do with their excess power. Apparently it limits itself to pulling
60W.I'm measuring my 12VDC freezer's run time on it. So far it's headed for 15 hours, more than enough to sleep through.
------------------------------------- I stopped it at 12% charge, a bit short of 14 hours. Keeping food cold overnight is the most difficult of my power outage challenges and the E290 has proven adequate. When awake I can run and monitor a generator after the storm abates; at night it could be stolen if audible from the street, though finally some neighbors have installed permanent ones loud enough to mask mine. Storing food outdoors in the car suffices in winter but the US Northeast gets hurricanes in warm weather too.
My 12VDC powered fridge and/or freezer is an Alpicool T60. Its operating cost would be $3-5 per month if it was on grid power, which means the solar installation would never pay for itself, the benefit is independence. Home Depot offers a similar product if you want to deal with humans in a local store without paying the high price of an RV appliance.
I ask the RV'ers I meet what they use for 12V off-grid appliances. So far all have had the $500 - $1000 name brand mini fridges like Engel and Dometic, so I haven't heard travel experience with the cheaper models. My Alpicool T60 has been fine, the older C20 sometimes glitched and needed a reset. jsw
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