I'm getting prices for a 30 x 50 x 16 metal building. Two big roll up doors, 3 regular doors, 4 windows, four skylights, and insulation. Turnkey project, slab and erection included.
Thickness of floor. Gauge of steel. Your location. Thickness of insulation.
As described I'll guess at $19,500, but I don't know your location or market.
Things to consider: Sheet iron pocket (think brick ledge) on perimeter. Drop pockets at the overhead doors. Standing seam roof. Radiant heat in the floor Slope to drain area with floor sink. Plenty of saw joints to prevent cracking (never exceed 12') Utilities entry point Chicken wire to protect insulation. Bathroom someday.
______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net
Thanks. I have $32k budget, so that will leave me some extra for equipment.
This will be pretty much off the rack metal building, 29 ga., track doors instead of coil rollup, no heat in flooring, bathroom and plumbing by me, additional inner metal stud partition and drywall by me, electrical by Mike my buddy the electrician, dirt work by BIL, standard roof no standing seam, and anything more than bare assembly done by myself or one of my trading buds. Most of any extra items (subpanel, breakers, conduit, connectors, electrical boxes, light fixtures, etc) already in one of the buds garages or on future jobsites........... ;-)
Located in an arid region, not a lot of special gutterwork required. 4" standard insulation which may be drywalled over later as a fire safety precaution.
Unless you're south of Atlanta to Dallas, etc. Not allowing for future floor heat is your biggest mistake. At least put the heating tubes in the floor, its available from discount big box building supply stores. If you're North of Washington DC to Denver, put 1" or 2" of Styrofoam insulation under the concrete.
Its really hard to upgrade this, later. A warm floor makes all the difference for an old guy in winter.
Recess the bottom of the overhead door 1/2 to 3/4" lower than finish floor. The "bump" can be made with an embedded angle iron or round pipe nose for heavy traffic. It creates a much better wind and water stop than hoping that the door bottom gasket will seal. The pocket needs to slope to the outside and the drive surface needs to meet or be below the pocket.
Most commercial mtl bldg guys will know what I'm talking about.
______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net
--Not Santa Clara but Santa Rosa; better tack on another hundred miles or so! Nice place to visit tho; bring a flatbed truck and I'll take you on a tour of the shop! ;-)
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.