Tapered keyway

I think that you will need 2 setups with .031 on alternate sides if the key is .125 total taper per foot

Correct, if the flywheel's plane and the bore are perpendicular, then changing the angle of the flywheel will change the angle of the bore a respective amount.

Just have to get the shim on the same side as the keyway. ;)

Tim

I'm not sure I follow this.... The crankshaft has a keyway cut in it which is 1/8" wide and 1/16" deep parallel with the center of the shaft (no taper). The flywheel hub will have 1/8" per foot taper so when the flywheel is slipped onto the shaft, the keyways are aligned and then a tapered key (tapered only on one side) (1/8" / foot) is tapped into the keyway openings, thereby wedging itself into position and preventing the flywheel from coming off the shaft as well as locating the rotational position of the flywheel on the shaft. The hub of the flywheel is the only keyway that gets tapered, and the hub is 1" wide. Ken.

I have secured flywheels to model engines with tapered keys. It is quite simple. All the taper is in the flywheel. The shaft is straight. Use a broach to cut the taper in the flywheel hub. First pass is the broach all by itself (no shims). For the second pass you need to make a shim. I used a thin piece of metal about twice as think as the original shim. Bent a right angle in it and stick in about 1/4 inch into the bushing. The bottom of the bushing has no shim and the top has a thick shim. Broach the second pass. Voila, you have a tapered keyway.

I bought my keys from a model supplier but they would not be hard to make.

Now you need to make a sliding hammer to remove the key!

Thanks all for the confirmations and suggestions. It's appreciated. Looking forward to getting this little thing done one of these weeks. It takes a little more machining time than I imagined, but I'm learning and going slow, trying to avoid messing up too much. Thanks again to all.... Ken.