Ted Edwards

Roger that! Thanks, Snag. Hey Ed, if you are lurking, here ya go!

--Winston

Check out the forum too , the url is

There is a *lot* of stuff to read. Thanks!

--Winston

Thanks. I have a lot of political opinions, but I try to keep some balance and write about metal related fun stuff more often than about political things.

I think of this newsgroup as a club of like minded people, when it comes to interest in machining and various projects, and also as a place where I can go for advice.

i

When those that "disagree" are insulting, disrespectful, vicious, demeaning, nasty and resort to personal attacks, they don't deserve to be engaged in a discussion. It's obvious that discussion is not their goal, they are only interested in trolling.

Balance is important. As soon as I figure a poster is never going to post on metalworking, I set a filter.

United around a common thread?

Sometimes it is hard to post metalworking stuff. I made a socket today for a 90 degree brass fitting. Nothing to brag on. Drilled the four corners so my endmill could run into them since I can't make a 90 degree corner. Removed metal until the fitting fit.

I did all the calculating using a cad program. Drew me a machining print also. Autocad beats the heck out of Alibre for this sort of thing. Thanks Miss Youmans for that geometry class years ago.

Inserted fitting, use that pointy end of edge finder to set bridgeport over center of fitting rotation. Drilled a #7 hole down thru my piece of O-1. Tapped it

1/4-20. Well, I tried to tap it. My tap tapped one too many holes. Use punch and hammer to remove rest of broken tap, pick up where it snapped with a new tap.

I though I'd use my nifty new slitting saw and arbor to cut off the excess material sticking up from the mill vise when I was done. Darn thing cut using about 20 degrees of the saw blade. I'm not versed on tweeking a slitting saw up. Hey a discussion topic, how do you center that saw blade?

Gave up, took my work piece over to surface grinder with a 1/32" cut off wheel. Cut off most of excess stock. Put back in mill upside down, mill off excess.

Debur.

Screw in 1/4-20 setscrew, attach a hex nut to portion sticking out of back. Take a 7/16" socket and place over nut.

The nut and setscrew thing was just a way to center the socket I'm using for the

3/8" square drive over center of rotation.

Clean things up really clean, wire brush, flux, heat, apply some SafetySilv 44 silver braze and join. Go to break, let work cool.

Take work back to lathe, radius the corners a bit for safety and asthetics. Break all sharp edges, hand to engineer.

For most of us that make things, this isn't all that exciting. The guys with slotters would have processed it differently.

Now tips on how you dial in a slitting saw, that would be a good topic for someone to start. Oh, I'm repeating myself.

Wes

could run into

1/4-20. Well,

remove rest

degrees of

discussion topic, how

Take a 7/16"

Sounds fun. Post some pictures.

i

Sounds fun. Post some pictures.

i

Had the same problem with a slitting saw. I'd like to know how you dial one in also.

Garrett Fulton

I have one that I've never used ... but it looks to me like if it's on a close-fitting arbor it should *be* aligned/concentric. Mine's keyed to the (now 3/4" - useta be 3MT) arbor so it can't slip . I guess I need to actually try using it , for all I know it's also off enough to be a problem .

But ... but... Ed said he was a Centrist!! And then argued for the Left for paragraphs on end. but he argued well, and usually with minimal acrimony

You don't. Either the arbor and hole are concentric with the saw's periphery or they aren't, assuming negligable runout on the spindle itself.

None of mine are perfectly concentric but most are pretty close. It doesn't seem to make any difference in performance. More important is whether (or not) the plane of the saw is perpendicular to the spindle axis so the slot cut will be the desired width.

You don't. Either the arbor and hole are concentric with the saw's periphery or they aren't, assuming negligable runout on the spindle itself.

None of mine are perfectly concentric but most are pretty close. It doesn't seem to make any difference in performance. More important is whether (or not) the plane of the saw is perpendicular to the spindle axis so the slot cut will be the desired width.

My own fault then, as the saw is made in the US, and seems to be of good quality. The arbor sounds like it's identical to the one Snag mentioned. But I bought it at a flea market and it's made in Pakistan or some such. I need a good arbor. Thanks.

Garrett

Winston:

Send him a shout out along with encouragement to renew his presence. When you kill file the knee jerkers kicking from both wings, along with the racists and voluble loons, there is the meat of good information here.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

But ... but... Ed said he was a Centrist!! And then argued for the Left for paragraphs on end. but he argued well, and usually with minimal acrimony

*****************************

Ed's a wordsmith, his prose are often eloquent yet he evades and/or dismisses inconvenient facts and opinions. I had a number of good discussions and disagreements with him and respected him and his opinions. But his dark side sometimes takes him over the line.

Mine was made by a previous owner of my lathe . The 3MT was so he could use it in the spindle , there was also a very light duty drawbar that was attached to the arbor when i got the lathe . I cut it to 3/4" straight so I could use it in an R8 collet in my mill .

(...)

Hi Edward,

He knows that you and I and many others would welcome him back, any time. I understand and appreciate the reasons that he has for shifting his focus to more meaningful stuff, so I'm not going to harangue the guy.

I swapped eMails with another grouper who 'dropped off the radar' a while back. I engaged in a little good - natured encouragement to get him to post. I didn't realize how intrusive my eMails were, but later found out. Oops.

I'm not gonna take aim at my *other* foot. :)

--Winston

W:

Yeah, "Stumpy" always had a wooden sound to it... and "Harangutan"...too darn common these days.

In the course of an email from him, however, if any reiteration of incoming commendations could aid his reconsideration to re-enter the lists, feel free to note the above. "Focus", IIRC, comes from campfire and he is welcome at mine.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

(...)

I am a 'Harangasaurus' myself.

Sounds good.

--Winston

It's easy to make a decent arbor if you have a lathe. My arbors are all shop-made.