Tool handles

If you use them hard every day, the oil and sweat from your hands polishes them and keeps them oiled a bit like an old handrail.
I assume you weren't planning on making that method work. Boiled linseed oil mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits soaked in should get you about the same place. Maybe wrap them with rags or something to really soak them to start.
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I have some old shovel and other tool handles. They have lain in the sun
for a good bit, and are dried, and cracked a bit. What is a good way to fix
them? I have sanded them down with an electric sander and coarse paper. I
would like to fill in the cracks, and some of them have places where the
wood is splintering along the grain.
What's a good way to doctor up these good old tools?
The new stuff is crap. I haven't bought a rake lately that the head hasn't
fallen off after less than a week.
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If you want to fill the cracks with something modern, you probably can't beat good old body putty. If you dont like pink, you probably could mix in something gray or brown (enamel paint).
Then re-sand and seal with any good sealer.
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Marine grade epoxy resin. Carefully push into cracks and coat surface, wrap a layer of fiberglass cloth, saturate cloth with the epoxy and then wrap with release paper. When cured remove release paper, sand and paint with quality marine grade paint.
Or just buy a new fiberglass handle for the tool...
Reply to
Pete C.
The "Bondo" folks have figured out that they can sell more of that stuff in Home Depot than in the auto shops. The stuff they sell in HD/Lowe's isn't pink.
Reply to
John Gilmer
I filled the cracks in my old shovel handles, and the handles on my wheelbarrow, with epoxy and wood flour (sawdust is good enough). Then I sanded and painted with thinned varnish; sanded lightly again and rubbed in linseed oil. Six months later, when the linseed was dry, they were good as new. d8-)
You never know with linseed. If the surface is really porous, it takes forever to dry. Other times, if the surface is completely filled and you're putting on only a very thin coat, it dries in a few days.
-- Ed Huntress
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Ed Huntress
As I remember, Bondo does not work well with shocks and flexing, and most tool handles suffer from both.
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Bondo is a very weak polyester mix, and polyester is a lousy adhesive, to begin with. As you say, I wouldn't use it for anything that flexes.
Epoxy is a great deal better in taking flex, and it's one of the best adhesives on wood. And you don't need a fancy epoxy for a job like this. Some Elmer's epoxy glue and some fine sawdust will do it.
-- Ed Huntress
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Ed Huntress
Boiled linseed oil will undo the drying effect; start with that, put a coating of external stain over it to keep UV at bay. Alas, the handles will become slippery.
If you need more friction, a seal coat of shellac (should go over the linseed oil) will do it, but won't like wet afterward. Can't have everything.
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Linseed oil and rags? and what does he do after the fire?
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BLO (boiled linseed oil), turpentine, and beeswax.
Smells goooood toooo.
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Ive done this method with good sucess. If I have anything..its a surplus of hot and dry.
I bought a joint of 2" PVC and an endcap, stuck the handle down the tube and filled it with the mixture and let it soak for a day. Then hung it to dry while the next handle was in the tube.
Remember..handle first, then fill. Reversing the order screws up your tennis shoes.
Reply to
Gunner Asch
Try an industrial supplier - someone who carries the full "loc-tite" line. It is used for underwarer repairs, and for gas-tank repairs amongh other things.
Reply to
clare at
Sure. (1) Reduce the amount of "catalyst" (everybody calls it the catalyst, but it's not -- the MEK stuff). But read the can and don't use less than the recommended amount (usually more than half of the "full" amount) or you'll have glop that will never harden. (2) Better: put the resin in the refrigerator for a half-hour before you mix it. Refrigerate only the amount you're going to use.
You can buy it at a marine supply or plumbing supply, or you can mix your own with ordinary epoxy glue (not "5-minute" epoxy, which usually is not waterproof) and sawdust.
A warning about epoxy: it tends to drool. You can put Cab-O-Sil in it to help reduce the drooling, but it's a characteristic of epoxy that's hard to overcome unless you load it up pretty well with the filler. Fortunately, for this application, you can use a lot of sawdust, which should solve the problem completely.
-- Ed Huntress
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Ed Huntress
dags for marine-tex
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Easy -- use the right amount of hardener. If it sets instantly (or anything even approaching that) you're using waaaaay too much.
It sets faster at higher temperatures, too.
Reply to
Doug Miller
May be no help where you are, but this is the stuff on the right hand side of the little pond:-
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I'm sure I've also seen a USA'n type, but I'm buggered if I can remember the name it went by.
regards Mark Rand RTFM
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Mark Rand
"Ed Huntress" wrote in news:%bYIi.690$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe12.lga:
for hammer handles,the best,SAFEST way is to replace the handle. With patched cracks,you could get pieces/shards flying off under impacts. If you can't find an ash replacement handle,go to a woodcraft store and buy a large ash dowel and shave it down to size. Or buy a cheap wood handled hammer from Harbor Freight,and swap the handle into your antique.
Reply to
Jim Yanik
Home Depot..Plumbing section "Oatey" brand..comes ina clear plastic tube about 1" Dia X 10" long w/ red cap on end. About 6 bucks
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SNIP...then you wrote......
Hey Jim,
I've got an antique axe similkarrly dealt with. I figure it is about 400 years old. It's had a least 8 new handles, and I myself just replaced the head once again, just a few years back.
Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.
Reply to
Brian Lawson

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