Gretings DoN, Regarding broaching using an arbor press, I have broached uncounted keyways using arbor presses. Even with a good one it's possible for the broach to start cutting at an angle. The method that has worked best for me over the years is to start the broach, relieve the pressure on the broach to let it spring back if it wants to, start pushing on it again, relieve the pressure again, and the broach all the way through. Unless it's a long broach. Then I might repeat the process a few more times. Most of the time the broach will not spring back into the guide bushing a noticeable amount, but sometimes it will and thats when you know you just avoided a scrapped part or a broken broach. Eric
That has been my experience with an Enco arbor press too.
The unhardened drill-rod broach at lower right survived passes through two die-cast pulleys, though it bend slightly on the second one.
chip grooves are barely large enough and pack solid with chips. I had planned to harden it after a trial and grind them wider with a cutoff wheel to sharpen it, however the first test sample worked well enough to use. The step size of 0.005" (0.010 dia) is OK but I'd make it a little less for the next one. My 3/16 keyway broach steps 0.004" per tooth.
I would mill the slot in the gear to width and centerline diameter, then make a broach to circularize the ends, with a snug-fitting pilot section to guide it.
The effort to cut the gear might justify making a guide, perhaps a cup and lid to align the gear and broach. You might find a pipe cap and plug the right size if you don't have large diameter round stock. You could turn a concentric clamping surface on the cap's OD by mounting it on a chucked tap or brass pipe nipple.
The guide could combine a longer slot of the right width and a shallow recess of the pilot's diameter to align the broach in both axes. Cut the slot and recess into the base of the cup half way in from opposite sides. The lid keeps the broach from tilting.
That's basically what I did to make a broach of this form to adapt a Pegler tap stem to a different knob a few year ago. The minor OD was
5.6mm and the major one 7mm and did that in 8 stages over 40mm. As I have a DRO on the lathe I didn't cut the taper you mention but rather went straight to cutting the stages and the back clearance angle, I also didn't leave it over size for final grinding but that would depend on the accuracy required . After hardening and tempering I touched up the sides slightly with a stone and it worked very well in brass for the few I needed to do. All in all it wasn't a very time consuming thing to make and was the first multi stage broach I've done, I had previously made a few to cut internal serrations in blind holes, again for tap adapters.
Yes. It may seem odd that a broach can start cutting at an angle but there is not that much support for the broach when first starting the cut. And if there is a little play in the arbor press, and there always is, this play can be magnified by the length of the broach. So I have found that relieving the presure on the broach lets it spring back into position. Once it's in the work a ways it will cut straight. By the way, I have made several bushings for custom bores. Odd diameter compared to the broach size, tapered bores, etc. Eric
Yes -- I've done the relax and let spring back as well. A good approach.
And -- you may have to do it up to three times with some keyway broaches with two shims needed. Real fun when you add a 3"+ hub to broach, even in nice 12L14 free-machining steel. :-) At least the outside keyway on that hub (actually a hub adaptor) could be done on the horizontal mill itself before I pulled off the old pulleys.
While I was talking about hex and square broaches, and the bushing which I was talking about was one to hold the top end of the broach close to on center, it also applies with keyway broaches, where you have two bushings -- the guide bushing with the shims, and the centering bushing on the end of the arbor press's ram. etmp was talking about keyways apparently, I was covering it all. (BTW -- The shims are to keep the keyway broach from needing to be two or three times as long. :-)
And the keyway broach has more meat so it does not bow as much as a hex or square one of similar cutting area.
Something to consider. Depends on how the making of the double-D broach goes.
Intersting that of the gears in that Tek plugin, the one that failed was a plain spur gear, and most of the others (which are still available) were either bevel gears, or combination bevel and spur gears. The only still available spur gear is the long one.
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I've always wanted to go there, but never made it.
O.K. The Ultra-10 is one of two which are of the level of construction of a fairly good PC. (The Ultra-5 is horizontal, the Ultra-10 is vertical (tower) format, and both use the same system (mother) board. One difference is that the Ultra-10 has room for the fancy Sun UPA graphics cards (like the Creator-3D) and the Ultra-5 does not. Both use IDE disk drives -- up to 120 GB IIRC, thanks to a limit in the controller chip that they used.
A *lot* of bad electrolytics suggests that it was during the time of the pirated electrolyte formula.
If you want to see what the high-end Sun workstations look like, take a look in a Sun Blade 2000 (or a 1000 for that matter.) The Ultra-60 is also really good, but not as fast. For about the speed of the top end of the Ultra-10 line (they came with several different CPU speeds), but a 1U rack mount chassis, and only one PCI slot.) These are the Sunfire-V120 machines. Two internal SCA hard drives, a (usually) built-in CD-ROM or DVD-ROM reader.
If you get into the Sun machines, this site will be useful. It is an online version of the last FEH (Field Engineer's Handbook), which used to be available in dead-tree format.
Scroll down to the EOL systems, and click on the Ultra-10 to find out lots of details about the system and what it can work with. (Note, you won't find schematics of *any* of the machines anywhere.) :-(
Go visit the Sun Blade 2000, and click on the side view to see what a really nice tower system looks like. The Sun Blade 1000/2000 use the same system board and CPUS as the Sun Fire 280R (another rack mount system). All of these systems use (by default) Fibre Channel drives, and you can hand up to 125 drives on one controller.
You will find the V120 under "entry level servers". It has, aside from the two internal SCA disk drives, an external UltraSCSI connector, *two* built-in 100BaseT ethernet ports, a general serial port and one which is also the LOM (Lights Out Management) one which allows you to talk to the system, power it down, and reboot it from whatever distance is comfortable. It also has two USB ports. You normally only talk to it through the LOM port, when it boots, it switches that port to talk to the OS instead of the LOM hardware -- unless you type a '#' followed by a '.'.
Since it is made to co-exist with many others (I have six taking up a small part of a relay rack here) it has aside from a green power LED, also an orange "Fault" LED -- both on the front and the back. You can turn the fault off and on from the LOM.
You used to be able to download Solaris 10 from Sun for free, as long as you did not want to have support. Since Oracle took over, things are a bit tighter, but it looks like I can get Solaris 11 from OpenSolaris (which is owned by Oracle).
You can install a framebuffer (Unix name for a graphics card) in the one PCI slot, and plug in a keyboard, and it acts like a workstation. Or -- you can plug in a PCI card which will host one, two or four more UltraSCSI slots and turn it into a server with up to 62 disks (counting the two built-in).
There are two flavors of V120. One with a power line provided power (standard AC cord), or one with two DC connectors, intended to be used by the telephone company, and powered from the giant batteries that they run from.
Ouch! That hurts. Was the $541.00 one the one for punching a cutout for a DB-25 connector by any chance? That was the most expensive that I bought new. (Though the big ones for industrial conduit sizes tend to be sickeningly expensive these days. :-)
It was a rectangular relay socket punch. I think it was for the P&B KHP series, but I bought it almost 40 years ago. I balked at the $37.50 price at that time, when most of the other punches were in the $8 range. The meter punch I bought was about the same price, but it was used more than the relay punch. I also added the bearing drive screws to all the larger punches, and they weren't cheap, either. :(
I used to broach 3/8 keyways in steel and cast iron. On the big arbor press I had to hang on the handle to force the broach through. Three passes. I could have used the 40 ton air over hydraulic press but it was too fast and might have broken a broach. Besides, I was young and didn't really mind hanging from the press handle like a monkey. Eric
Hmm ... probably I would have to purchase more gear cutters. They tend to be rather expensive these days, and I had to purchase one for the Tek gears. 32 DP, 20 degree PA of the proper size for a 20 tooth gear. This can add up if I have to keep buying those.
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I couldn't afford to take that as vacation. I never had that much saved up at a time. :-)
This is a larger room, of course, and in practice is our living room. :-)