welding equipment recommendation

Hello all-

I am completely ignorant when it comes to welding, welding supplies, and metalwork in general (although I do like to think I am pretty handy and learn new things quickly). That being said, I am interested in buying a welder that can be used for automotive restoration (replacing rusted out trunk panels, floor boards, and perhaps patch panels).

Does anyone have any recommendations on what I can use for these types of tasks? I have ordered several books that will give me a general overview of welding & metal fabrication, but would like to figure out what price range I am looking at.

Also, if anyone has any web links or resources that might help me in obtaining more basic information on this topic please post them...I am willing to read up on the topic. Thanks.

Any advice is greatly appreciated (and I apologize if this is an extremely dumb question).



Reply to
K. Elliot
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A small 110 v MIG will do fine for that. A Millermatic 135 or Lincoln SP135 will do the job. They both cost about $550. You will also need a bottle of C25 gas (75% Argon, 25% CO2).

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Ernie Leimkuhler wrote in news:130120041123259132% snipped-for-privacy@stagesmith.com:

And your local salesman/tech guy at the welding supply/gas supply house can be a wealth of information.

Some other suggestions for needed equipment. Get a GOOD hood. DO NOT SKIMP on the hood. This is your eyes we are talking about, and you only have 1 set, take care of them.

Get a welding jacket, your arms will thank you later. Some good flexable welding gloves.

Reply to

What is REALLY dumb is to go buy stuff and spend a lot of $$$$ without asking advice from experienced people first. Then having to replace it when it craps out or you can't get parts.

Buy the best you can afford. Lots of cheapo machines and equipment out there, but if you buy quality, it will still be chugging along years and years from now. One of my favorite things is an autodark hood, although it might be a little pricey for a newbie. $300. But after you weld a while and make some $$ you might consider it. See if you can borrow one and try it. I can't say enough about my NexGen. So much easier to get the weld in exactly the right place on fine work.

Get a wirefeed that has gas, and not the fluxcore wire. The Miller and Lincoln units are outstanding. If you feel you might graduate to heavier stuff, or occasionally want to weld thicker metal, get the 220v. models. Realize that you can't just plug the 220v machine anywhere like you can

110v, but that the 110 won't do some thicker stuff. I like my 220v., even though I do have to string out a long cord now and again. I got a heavy one from Home Depot for a reasonable price, and had to put the special plugs on each end. I figger one machine does almost all, except for really heavy stuff, and I don't do that any more.


Reply to

I would go along with what others have said. When you get the welder and gas bottle, don't forget the regulator. The gas bottle should be secured so it can't fall over. When they do they can knock the valve off and the resulting torpedo can go through walls. Bits of your body won't stop it. Cheaper auto masks are available, mine cost £40. It may not perform as well as more expensive ones but I don't weld that often. I have never tried another auto mask so cannot compare it. They are particularly useful on car repairs when you may be stuck for space under a wing and need one hand on the torch and the other hand holding the repair panel. MIG is the weapon of choice for car repairs. A couple of points to remember though. MIGs don't like welding to dirty metal, rust or paint. Clean the area to be welded back to bright steel. This isn't always easy on rusty car bodywork. If you can't find bright steel, you shouldn't be welding new steel there anyway. MIGs don't perform out doors in windy weather. The wind blows the shield gas away. There is another NG sci.engr.joining.welding which is full of useful info and people. Good luck


Reply to
John Manders

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