What is it? LXXXVI

499. A bag hook

John Martin

OUCH!!!

The name of this tool contains two words, you've got the second word correct.

Rob

Barking spud.

Kevin Gallimore

Correct! Here a the link for this one from the answer page:

Rob

501. Slater's tool?

(top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

No, you scratch off shreds with your knife, then spark it with your knife to spark the shreds and the tider.

Saw it on TeeVee once. :-)

Cheers! Rich

496: Split shaft coupler. woodruff key goes into square portion of shaft and coupler, bolt tightens coupler onto shaft. 497: Top of an old blowtorch

498: Window glazing points.

499: Looks like half of a pair of handles with which to pick something up.

500: Round bar on rectangular block with keychain chain attached. :-)

501: No clue

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Same as 499, for operating a recessed switch.

Half right. The flame did tend to taper off as the pressure in the tank decreased. The decrease was most rapid when starting from a full tank as the space above the gasoline for air was minimal. Second pump up took longer and lasted longer. The air pumped in by hand had little or nothing to do with combustion. The stuff coming past the needle valve was just gasoline until the tank was nearly empty. Combustion air was drawn in through the vent holes beside the jet. The heat vaporized the fuel but not in the tank. The passage below the main barrel was known as the generator. Nomenclature and principal of operation identical with the Coleman stove or lantern.

Bob Galloway

Unknown wrote:

Sorry, but it's not a coupler. Couplers are longer, and have setscrews for each shaft. This is a shaft collar. The slot has nothing to do with a Woodruff key, but is there to allow the collar to collapse easier.

John Martin

But why is the slit so broad. A simple cut with the slitting saw would have been enough.

Nick

The rod is what you strike the back of your knife against to create the spark, the block is of magnesium: shave it with your knife into your tinder to get something that'll stay lit.

But if you collapse it to far, it will be permanently bent. Also, you can't collapse it more than the gap on the side with the screw is. :-)

I really don't think that the key slot was made with much thinking. Just think about the manufacturing-process: You have a thick-walled tube, cut to length, drill and tap for locking screw, then slit the open end _and_ cut the groove in one pass. As that thing looks, they had to broach the groove as a further step. Or are such tubes (drawn, with key slot) readily available?

Nick

You're right, Nick - it's a key slot and has nothing to do with expansion or contraction. I tried to fool you, but couldn't.

You're probably also right about broaching the slot. If I had to make them, though, I think I'd just run the slitting cutter a little deeper to cut the through slot and the shallow slot on the far side in one pass. But there is undoubtedly a good reason for a separate broaching operation.

I don't know what is readily available. I have seen long bushings for holding boring bars that are similar but without any setscrews. Why should it be available, though? The companies that make these make them by the thousands, if not the millions. I'd guess they start with solid bar stock. Maybe they slit it before they bore it and cut to length.

John Martin

It's not that I want to be right, I want to understand why it is the way it is. For that application, the key slot is quite odd, so I think the usage is something different.

Or maybe I'm still fooling you? :-)))

ACK, that's what I meant.

That's what I would like to know.

Slitting before boring would not be very clever.

Enjoy, Nick

Same here. I could almost swear there was a set screw affair like that on an old Singer tredle machine I tore apart once. Seemed that th' keyed portion of th' shaft it fit over was about 2" long. Don't recall what it's location on that shaft actually did tho.

Snarl

As John says, it's not a keyway, but just makes it easier to clamp the collar on the shaft. The pictured 1/4" collar is at the small end of the available range of sizes, so the slot is wide relative to the clamping diameter which makes the slot look wide enough to be a keyway, but I assure you it's not.

I have 4 collars (3/16, 3/8, 1/2 and 1-1/2) in front of me and the slot in all is approx .060 inch wide. The slot does not extend to the far side of the ID on the 1-1/2" collar, presumably because the larger diameter collar is flexible enough without it.

It's worth getting familiar with these collars as they're handy for all sorts of things. They're also available with a threaded ID, in two pieces, hinged, threaded to match bearing locknut threads, etc. Ruland and Stafford are two mfrs.

Here's some photos I posted a couple weeks ago of one way I use them. They're also useful as hubs for attaching components to a shaft that need adjustable timing - cams, for example.

Ned Simmons