What kind of soap or powder do you use for very dirty hands

And I have never heard it called Trichlor. If you do a search on " Triclor " you mostly get swiming pool disinfectant, Trichloroisocyanuric acid.

If you covered cleaning and finishing, I am surprised you never tried d-Limonene based solvents. It has one disadvantage in some cases. It evaporates slowly. So can stay around and soften thing up. We had a problem with a silver filled epoxy. It would soften it up and about

12 hours after getting some on the epoxy , the stuff would fall off. It is also very effective as a poison for ants. The food grade stuff is okay to use in the kitchen , but kills ants quickly.

Dan

We didn't have Google back in those days, Dan. We didn't even have Apple IIs.

Dan, I was a reporter who visited shops, watched what they did, interviewed the users and asked lots of questions, shot photos, and then went home and wrote about it for magazines. I didn't *use* it.

When I was co-owner of a job shop (mid-'70s), our cleaning tank was next to the back door, had a basket in it, and was filled with some unknown gunk that probably was there since before the Flood. When we took the lid off, we opened the back door and tried not to cough. d8-)

It's interesting, and I'm sure it would be worth researching the uses for the stuff. All I can relate to Iggy about cleaning *hands* is my experience from my own home shop, and from wrenching sports cars back in the '60s and '70s. I used Gunk and Boraxo, and they were pretty darned effective.

'Might be a regional thing. Here in Silicon Valley, we called it 'Trichlor', forever.

--Winston

Interesting about the ATF. My repair garage mechanic uses the orange stuff. I bought him a pump bottle of Walmart's foaming hand soap. He wasn't all that impressed.

Me, I really like the foamy soap. Does a nice job, for me.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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Yeah, ATF was always my favorite when I'd gotten into a really old oil leaker of an engine which was caked with thick, greasy mud. ATF washes off easily with soap in the sink, too. It's a high-detergent oil.

WD-40 removes stickers and remaining adhesive readily, too.

-- Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air. -- John Quincy Adams

Does anyone use real gloves? Latex, or nitrile? I've never liked wearing gloves. But, I really should when working on oily vehicle engines.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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There are times when it will not work. In particular (for auto work) if you have to remove the radiator, any spill will wash off the stuff where it hits. I think that it bore DuPont's name when I used it back in the early 1960s. (And -- when I discovered that problem. :-)

Otherwise, it keeps the hands pretty clean, and washes off quite easily with water.

Enjoy, DoN.

Yep. The last batch are from HF and are the dark blue HD version. They seem to hold up real well and don't tear up very fast unless you catch a real sharp point. I have used some others that came from an industrial supply place and were a LOT more money and they didn't hold up as well.

I also wear a pair under other gloves for various tasks to keep my hands from drying out and cracking a lot since I have DRY skin.

Then there are the C H E A P one we have on the rigs. I almost hate wearing those to deal with patients because they are so cheap they tear if you look at them crosseyed...

I met a fellow, stocking vending machines. he uses hand cream, and then nitrile gloves over the hand cream. Says that handling a lot of cardboard dries his skin.

Ambulance isn't a good place for cheap gloves. Spreading an infection costs more than good gloves.

As to gloves. There is a procedure for removing them, I learned years ago. With one hand, grasp the wrist part of the other glove, and pull it off. Then, using the ungloved hand, reach into the glove on hand, and grasp the glove from the inside. Pull the second glove off, turning it inside out, and ending up covering the first glove. So any bio hazzard is trapped within the inside-out glove #2.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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Yep. The last batch are from HF and are the dark blue HD version. They seem to hold up real well and don't tear up very fast unless you catch a real sharp point. I have used some others that came from an industrial supply place and were a LOT more money and they didn't hold up as well.

I also wear a pair under other gloves for various tasks to keep my hands from drying out and cracking a lot since I have DRY skin.

Then there are the C H E A P one we have on the rigs. I almost hate wearing those to deal with patients because they are so cheap they tear if you look at them crosseyed...

I started using nitrile gloves for oil changes and other gunky jobs a few years ago. Some mild dermatitis is what prompted it; my hands itched for days after cleaning off oil several times in one day.

My old buddy the Ferrari mechanic started using them when his hands started to look like they were going to fall off. He told me he got used to them in about a week and that I should start using them. He was right.

Yep cardboard and paper are really bad for drawing the oils out of the skin. Sawdust does it as well.

True, BUT gloves that hold up real well are usually thicker and don't provide the tactile feel needed.

Yep standard surgical/trauma removal technique. Pull them off and into the red bag with them.

The trailing letter M was missing. Here is a new one:

Failing that, search on the center of the URL.

Joe Gwinn

OK, thanks. I use a large coffee can, it seems to work well. Powdered Borax soap and warm water work exceedingly well. I ended my search for "perfect soap" right there.

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