wiring a stove in the shop

This is good that you have a newer stove that has a separate safety ground and neutral return wire (my 1956 Garbage Electric stove does not, still running strong). You will need to run another wire from your breaker panel to the modified outlet (assuming it is not there) where you replace the current receptical with one matching the stove (or not depending how important safety ground is to you), and replace the outlet to either match the stove plug, or replace the plug cord with one that matches your welder outlet (giving up a separate safety ground where you would then tie the neutral and safety ground terminals together in the stove).

ignator

The four prong has a neutral and a ground since some parts of the stove are

Wes

If you do not need the clock/timer or the light you may be able to ignore the white wire and just connect the 220V & gnd. Art

Stoves typically have a higher Amprage connector than welders. Are you sure the wiring is sized appropiatly? Be sure before you go just changing the connector. ...lew...

On what planet? Stoves are typically 40A and welders are typically 50A or more... Well, real welders are at least.

Stove has both a neutral and a ground as things like lights and clocks are 110v instead of 220v/

Howard Garner

Only under more recent code. Older stove installations are 3 wire, same as older dryer installations.

Oh! well those are BIG welders and the ones I'm familiar with are wired in direct. ...lew...

Well, many are. Certainly the one in my home shop is since 100A connectors are too dang expensive. At large manufacturers plugs are pretty common, since a) they can afford the connectors, and b) they feed the welders 480V so the connectors aren't as big.

On the feed into my container i stumbled on the same issue

the connector is too expensive to put a lot of them in

Ugh I need to post later int he day.

I was looking at two M-F camlocks one between the shop panel and the cables to the house and one at the walls of the house for the 100A i'm expecting to run into the shop. Once i saw connector proces exceeding even my cable prices i thought better. I'm going with a single connector at the house. If i need to disconnect the cables from the shop i can take then formt he wall and remove them at the panel.

Brent Ottawa Canada

Two? You should have at least four camlocks, two hots, neutral and ground. Check with theatrical supply places in the area, they may be able to give you better prices. Also note that the commonly used camlock for theatrical distribution is a 250A rated one, and a smaller, cheaper one rated at 125A is available.

two connection points, sorry

yes youre right (And I come from the Audio production side) Group of 4 Black Red White and Green (Blue as well in 3 Phase systems)

thanks for the heads up on the 125A cam I'll keep my eyes open Usually though the electrical places beat the theatrical places here. Unfortunately

I need (13) 480 connectors for welders. What do I use that costs less than $300 a set?

Gunner

What amperage? Looks like 30A 480V 3ph twistlocks aren't that bad, ~$72 / set:

And having some yutz pull a plug under load is also possible....

Gunner

Sounds like an environment with employees as sharp as hammers

Brent

Southern California. English is not..not the primary language in the shop portion.... comprende?

Its hard enough to get em to wipe their ass and not put the used paper in the waste basket. Teaching em to flush it...

"no tienen servicios que enrojecen en mi pueblo....¿usted quiere decir que se supone que nosotros ponemos el papel en el agua?...."

Gunner

The same ones that you use on a Spider Box lead - the less-used sizes of "California Series" twistlock devices are going to be around $200 a set, but the very commonly used CS6365 spider-box plug and CS6369 locking receptacle (120/240V 1Ph 4-wire) are around $50 each.

They make CS8165 plug and CS8169 receptacle for 50A 480V 3Ph 4-wire (no neutral). Can't be /that/ much more...

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