WTB B&S #9 tooling for Burke #4

What sorts of arbors does it take right now? I may have some stuff for it at my house, also, a guy bought 8 boxes of milling stuff (arbor adapters) from me that he wants to resell, I can put you in contact.

i

Right now it uses Brown & Sharp #9 arbors. You might see if you have any. And if your contact has any B&S #9 stuff I'd sure like to contact him.

Should be B&S #9

Gunner

"Liberalism is a philosophy of consolation for Western civilization as it commits suicide"

- James Burnham

DO not have that, sorry.

i

I have a Diamond Machine Tools mill (horizontal/Vertical) that has a B&S #9 spindle for horizontal cutting and a #7 for vertical.

I've researched tooling options extensively and found tooling with these tapers to be rare and expensive. I've managed to buy some #7 stuff new (collets only) for $20 each but most of what I've bought has come from ebay. I've found things as cheap as $15 but most times the price climbs steadily to $200 for things like arbors.

R8 tooling commands much lower prices. There is a bigger selection of new and used tooling for R8 than B&S.

Gary

Can you use a big collet - say 3/4" - to drive a straight arbor?

Hang on to it and treat it gently. I've managed only one arbor in 15 years.

No problem getting collets and end-mill holders. Collets are available from various suppliers for about $35/each. End mill holders at about $15-$20. Forget used collets and holders. They will be beat and useless. B&S#9 tooling is still in use for some grinders.

Boris

Somehow I've accumulated some cutters with other than 1" holes. Any problem with making an adapter sleeve?

Good points, thanks.

You have a 1" arbor. That's also my biggest arbor. I managed to find a

3/4". I also wanted a 1-1/8" and a 1-1/4" arbor because cutters of those diameters are generally more prentiful than 1" holes. Also I have wanted a stubby arbor for some applications. Those are the only reason I've been looking for additional arbors. Aside from that, I have never had problems with my 1" arbor.

I wouldn't do it. You could, but there will be a problem with the arbor working out of the collet. If you use it with the overarm, and a center point on the arbor, that problem is eliminated (in one direction, at least). That's the also the reason for using an end-mill holder that has a set-screw in it: end mills are notorious for screwing out of collets and into the work. Another problem is that you have now introduced yet another rotating surface between the spindle and the work. Another place to pick up wobble and chatter. It is something to be avoided.

Boris

I've done that with several 1.25" cutters. Get a hunk of 1" ID x 1.25" OD bronze bearing material. A 6" hunk will do about 10 cutters. Works fine. The purists may object, but note that for really good accuracy, even with the right size arbor, you must really sharpen the cutter on the arbor with which it will be used. Super accuracy and production use aside, I find no noticeable difference between 1.25" cutter sleeved to 1" and 1" cutters.

Boris

I purchased some sleeves (McMaster/Carr) and use them quite successfully. I take VERY light cuts with cutters that aren't supported by the sleeves over the entire length of the cutter though.

Gary

The point of using a bronze bearing as a sleeve is that it has to be pressed in. You might even put some locktite on it. Once the sleeve is in place, it will never slip and you can take as big a cut as you would be a cutter directly on the mandrel. At least I've never had a problem with the cutter slipping when I used a bearing as a sleeve.

Boris.

Pardon me if this is a dumb question but what is stopping someone from making these?

Wes

Well said. In my case, I don't know that the taper in the spindle is all that great anymore.

Would boring it to R8 just be a matter of chucking it into a lathe, setting the compound for the correct angle, and cut?

Not a whole lot of trouble doing the rough work on a lathe, especially if you have a taper attachment. However: A horizontal mill arbor has to be quite precise.. This kind of precision is difficult, if not impossible to achieve without a centerless precision grinder. Also, the arbor should be hardened, again requiring finishing by grinding. An inadequate arbor will have cutters cutting on only one or two teeth, are more likely to chatter, and the cutter is much likelier to slip if there is no keyway. Making a satisfactory arbor for a horizontal mill is probably beyond the facilities of the typical (or even well endowed) rec.rational craft. metalworker.

Boris

Only not having a lathe.

John

One problem with boring tapers is that it's not just the angle that matters, but the diameters at both ends of the cut. You have to set the angle and then work up on the diameter and depth. Wouldn't be that bad, except that R-8 has a couple of different tapers and a key, which you'd have to broach for and then loctite in. It is also pretty deep, so you'd need a really rigid setup. Finally, is your spindle hardened? That would pretty much make it impossible without a large lathe and a toolpost grinder. I assume that your current spindle already has a drawbar which would be compatible with the R-8 system. The project would be doable, but probably a lot of work. ww88

Ive made at least two that are more than satisfactory.

Ive started off with a 1" endmill holder in the appropriate taper, and turned a stub on the end of a proper bar to fit into the 1" endmill holder, etc etc. Its not rocket science and works rickytic

Gunner

"Liberalism is a philosophy of consolation for Western civilization as it commits suicide"

- James Burnham

I just picked up a minty B&S 9 face mill holder with a 4" face mill on it if anyone wants it.

Ya aint gonna turn it with a 1/2hp motor.....

Gunner

"Liberalism is a philosophy of consolation for Western civilization as it commits suicide"

- James Burnham