WTB B&S #9 tooling for Burke #4

Ordinary 3/4 x 16 thread.

Boris

Okay. I've only gone by what I've seen from looking at R-8 collets and my bridgeport quill. The drawbar thread on a standard R-8 collet is 7/16"-20. Shouldn't be too hard to make. You're right about the angles, now that I think about it, only the main angle is critical. It's not like an DA double angle ER style collet. I should have thought about the key--I should know about the Atlas, I've got one. Thanks for keeping me thinking ww88

You mean 3/8" I hope. The one that came out was nowhere near 3/4"

John

Blink blink...on a #9????

Gunner

The aim of untold millions is to be free to do exactly as they choose and for someone else to pay when things go wrong.

In the past few decades, a peculiar and distinctive psychology has emerged in England. Gone are the civility, sturdy independence, and admirable stoicism that carried the English through the war years . It has been replaced by a constant whine of excuses, complaints, and special pleading. The collapse of the British character has been as swift and complete as the collapse of British power.

Theodore Dalrymple,

Here's another alternative: search.ebay.com/7594441090 A little pricy, and you'd have to email them 1st to see if the Burke is a machine they can do this to, but pretty straightforward. I like it that they do the cylindrical grinding with the existing bearings so that everything is concentric to the axis of rotation.

I've not use these services myself, my only interaction with them to date has been to by a manual. My mill also has a BS9 taper, but it came with a set of "Universal Z" collets, so I've mostly been picking up tooling with straight shanks. Also, it's a vertical. --Glenn Lyford

I bet if you hunt around to some older machine shops they might have some B&S # 9 arbors around. I have some myself that I think are lying in the back room somewhere.

John

That is how the Bridgeport key is made. It doesn't need to be that strong, since its function is to keep the collet from rotating as the drawbar is tightened or loosened. The *taper* is what holds the collet against cutting loads.

The Bridgeport key is actually *two* setscrews. The inner one is a dog-point setscrew (with the diameter of the dog point matching the groove width in the collets), and the outer one is a short setscrew with the hex socket going all the way through. You slide it on the hex key with a bit of space behind the dog point one, and screw it in to the proper depth, then pull the hex key out until it is only engaging the through-hole one, and tighten that one against the dog-point one to keep it from changing position.

No need for a broach -- and actually no *way* to apply a broach to this task.

Indeed so.

Since others have already pointed out the drawbar diameter error, I won't bother with it.

Enjoy, DoN.

of course. 3/8-16 Boris

I saw that. A bit more than I would spend on this $75 mill unless I had a money-making purpose for it. I don't

My current investment is about $5 worth of paint and a lot of time spent removing the old paint and bondo.

I looked for those, never could find them - thanks!

Rexc

Looks as though someone just posted several B&S 9 End Mill Holders on eBay.

Search for "Brown & Sharp #9"

_kevin

Thanks for the tip!

Rex

I've got some surplus-to-me B&S 9 tooling off my Diamond mill I'll sell cheap. If interested, contact me off list: anvil (at) nelink (dot) com

YES! (note: if done carefully, your B&S yooling will still fit!)

Regards,

Jack in Seattle

email sent

That's interesting. Now that I recall the drawing someone posted with the two tapers overlaid, I can understand how this works. Might not be as stable though.

By the way, this spindle looks mighty nasty down the bore. I'm going to run it through with a bronze bore brush and whatever else I can bing that won't hurt the surface anymore than it is already.

Is there such thing as a B&S #9 taper-cleaner-upper? I've seen such things for Morse taper.

I would suggest that you get one for a slightly larger Morse taper, and design a replacement male taper out of plastic (easy to machine), and move the cleaning wipers from the Morse to your new B&S. I don't think that anyone makes them for B&S. (I would suggest just buying the replacement wipers for the Morse taper -- but having an example of the complete tool could help you in your design work.

Enjoy, DoN.

Interesting idea. Thanks, Don