X-Y vise question (moved drill press to basement)

Mar 04, 2007 18 Replies

I moved the powermatic 1150 drill press to the basement, which took me a while since I did it by myself.



Now that I have it downstairs, I realized that I have a small issue. On my old drill press, I had a X-Y vise that I used for workholding. This vise was sold by Harbor Freight and worked just fine for me.



On this press, the slots for mounting a vise do not fit my old X-Y vise (they expect a bigger vise). So. There are three obvious solutions:


1) Buy a bigger vise


2) Drill mounting holes to fit this vise


3) Mount some sorts of brackets or whatever to hold existing vise.

Option 2 is obviously the cheapest and easiest. Two 1/4" holes should suffice. Would I shortchange myself in any way by doing that?



i

When faced with this sort of thing in the past, I've mounted the problem item on a chunk of plate, then drilled the mounting holes in the plate, not in the item. Saves swiss-cheesing a tool.

Stan

How about mounting the vise on a chunk of plate and drilling the plate to fit the holes?

Gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

that would be option 3, and yes, maybe that's what I should do. I have some sort of a round plate lying around. I'll check.

i

Frankly.as others have pointed out..that should be option one. Never drill holes in machinery if you dont have to do so.

Not even if you screw in a plug and stamp it "Oil" at a later date.

Gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

OK... I found a nice 11.5" round plate, 1/4" thick. I will drill and tap it for mounting the cross slide vise, and will make through holes for mounting plate to the table.

i

I owned/used a Jet 17" drill press for a few years. Most of that time the table wasn't mounted. When you loosened the table clamp on that machine, you could lift the table up and take it away. The table mounting casting (the "knee") had a hole with a vertical axis.

I bought an adapter from Grizzly which fit their cross-slide vise. As purchased, the adapter's stem was too skinny so I machined a bushing and installed it. For most of the time I owned/used that drill press, it had the cross-slide vise mounted. Worked great for me. I sold that DP years ago but still have the cross-slide vise, complete with mounting attachment and optional prismatic jaw. Never use 'em anymore.

Grant

Id use at least .375..but hey..if it works for you.

Gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

That's true..on a drill press enough get there by accident....

If the drill press table is T-slotted it probably has the channels and drain hose hole needed for running flood coolant, and Option 3 (adapter plate) is what you need to do - drill any holes through the table, and the coolant catching ability is severely compromised.

Put a hose barb in the drain hole, run a chunk of vinyl hose to a

5-gallon plastic bucket. For occasional use you can flood the work with high-sulphur cutting oil, WD40 or Kerosene from a squirt bottle, put some Kitty Litter in the bucket, and let the hose and bucket contain the overflow.

For production work you would set up plastic fences around the work to catch the flung oil or coolant and direct it toward the table, and rig up a circulating pump with a Line-Loc spout aimed at the work.

Gunner and Stan: you said what to do, but not WHY to do it.

Iggy seems to be a 'why?' guy, and without a good reason behind the answers he might plow off in the other direction anyway...

-->--

k

I think that I will use what I have...

In fact, I am already done, drilled, tapped, etc. the cross slide vise is fully set up. I need to attach a gooseneck light to the drill press also, to see the work area better.

i

that's how it was in my old drill press.

I use this vise all the time, it is very useful...

i

These are pretty cool:

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GWE

I have a better one from IKEA. Runs on 110v and takes a regular bulb. It is not remarkable for anything, but is flexible and stays where it is intended.

I made some pictures of this drill press that include the light.

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i

True enough. I sometimes take other peoples knowledge levels for granted.

Gunner

Does look good.

Even better if the LED's are in standard bulb bases and have replacements.

I know about LEDS - but are they being driven hard and have a shorter life, Are they in harms way and get bashed ?

Looks good...

Martin

Mart> > I need to attach a gooseneck light to the drill press

Costco had those up here, they were selling them as grill lights. They didn't sell very well, so they closed 'em out at $5 a pop. I bought 4, and have given one away. I have only opened one so far. I use it a lot. I use it on the mill, on the ironworker, on the surface grinder, on the bandsaw, and when I'm roasting coffee (I currently roast coffee in a hot-air popcorn popper and if you have a light shining straight down it helps you judge the roast level). I also took it when I had to spend a couple of nights in an old Army barracks, it clamped onto the bed frame fine. I used it for a reading light. Never watching TV I'm used to reading at night.

I haven't even looked to see if the bulbs are in standard bases or not. Mine's worked for at least six months now.

Grant

Mart> Does look good.

Grant, I think that for a drill press, a regular 110v gooseneck light is a lot better. It gives more light and does not require battery changes.

i

Yes, but this one is *magnetic*. No fuss about how to clamp it on. Or, if you're needing light around a wooden frame, it can also clamp on with a screw. Plus, the gooseneck is real light and flexible but stays where you point it. And you don't have to plug the dang thing in.

I'm not even suggesting this is a real work light. It is a very handy little unit, though.

GWE

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