What's the cheapest filament that'll survive one firing on a small aerospike?

Oct 18, 2026 Last reply: 41 seconds ago 5 Replies

First reply

bramble_pilot

I ran a sugar motor with a printed nozzle once and it told me the answer fast. PETG held its shape for maybe a second, then the rim went soft and the whole thing sagged out of round. ABS and PC will buy you a little more time but not enough to matter. KNSU burns around 1600C in…

Read the full reply

Been messing around with a design for a little aerospike nozzle, roughly 22mm across at the base, and I want to try printing it instead of machining one. It whould screw onto a test tube motor running on kn-sugar, nothing fancy, just a single static fire to see how the plume looks and wether the thing even works.



My worry is heat. Sugar propellant burns hot enough that I figure PLA would just slump instantly, and PETG prolly isn't far behind. Would something like ABS or PC hold up for a few seconds, or is any FDM filament basially a lost cause at that diameter? I've also got access to a resin printer but I'm guessing cured resin would crack or shatter rather than abrade, so maybe that's worse. If plastic truly won't work, is there a cheap way to get one printed in metal without paying a fortune for a part this small? I only need it to survive one run, so I don't care if it comes out scorched and ugly afterward. Also open to coatings or some kind of filler trick if anyone's had luck with that route.


I ran a sugar motor with a printed nozzle once and it told me the answer fast. PETG held its shape for maybe a second, then the rim went soft and the whole thing sagged out of round. ABS and PC will buy you a little more time but not enough to matter. KNSU burns around 1600C in the core, and at 22mm the gas is moving fast enough that even a couple seconds of exposure eats right through any plastic. So yeah, straight FDM is basically a lost cause for anything but a throwaway curiosity run where you accept it deforming mid burn. Resin is worse like you guessed, cured resin is brittle and it actually burns rather than melting away cleanly.

Gonna push back on the resin part. Mine didn't shatter or burn through like that, it charred on the surface and actualy protected what was underneath for a couple runs. The trick was using a high temp resin, not the cheap standard stuff, and keeping the walls thick so the char layer had something to hold onto. Thin sections are where it fails, the heat soaks through before any char builds up. For a 22mm part with beefy walls I'd try it before paying for metal. Worst case you're out one print and a motor.

For the cheap metal option, I had good luck sending a file to one of those print services that does steel bronze infiltration. A part that size came out under thirty bucks shipped, arrived in a week, and I got two static fires out of it before the spike edges started rounding off. Surface finish was rough as a cob which might actually help a plastic part too, so if you do end up running a filament version, try bumping the extrusion temp and printing with fat layer lines. More of a sacrificial texture than a smooth mold-looking surface.

I went the mold route with mine. Printed the spike shape in PLA as a one piece form, then packed it solid with Rutland furnace cement and let it cure a few days before burning out the plastic with a heat gun. The cement held up way better than any filament would have, and since you only need one run the PLA was basically sacrificial. Took a couple tries to get the packing dense enough, first one had voids that ate into the spike. Cheap enough that messing up a pour costs you nothing but time.

That mold and cement idea from the last post sounds like something I could actually pull off in my garage. Before I try it though, I'm wondering about the inside shape. If I pack cement around a printed spike, how do you get the surface smooth enough that the burning gas doesn't tear chunks out of it? Mine came out kind of grainy when I tested a sample in a cup. Also does the stuff need to bake hard first or is air drying enough for a short burn?

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required