Blacking Brass?

Does anyone know how to chemically black brass? (i.e. what chemicals to use?)
Cheers all
Martin

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On Fri, 26 Dec 2003 00:09:56 +0000, Martin L wrote:

If you only have little to do why not pay a visit to your local gunsmith, he might do it cheaply or sell you a kit or even tell you where to get one.
--
Neil
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Metalblak do a kit......
I have not used their brass-blacking kit but I have used their steel kit. Works fine for me..
They do visit ME shows or contact them at:
Delway Technical Services 192 Seabank Road New Brighton Wallasey Wirral CH45 5AG
Tel / fax 0151 639 3201.
Regards,
--
Pat Martindale

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Thanks both, but I was hoping for a recipie.
Cheers
Martin L
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From The handyman's Practical Receipts 1913: "Add to a solution of Copper Sulphate a strong solution of washing soda; allow this to settle , pour off the liquid, and add a quantity of water equal to the amount poured off; then allow to settle again, Then pour off as completely as possible, take the green sediment with four times its value in water, heat to 140degrees F., and add ammonia gradually until the articles immersed in it assume the desired colour." Never tried so entirely at your risk and best of luck. Let us know if it works
--
Roland Craven
nr Exeter Devon, UK
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I will have a go next week......
Cheers
Martin L
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:54:30 -0000, "Roland and Celia Craven"

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Have this in my favourite folder. http://astro.umsystem.edu/atm/ARCHIVES/FEB97/msg00250.html
Also try and get a copy of this book from your local library. The Colouring, Bronzing and Patina of Metals published by Thames and Hudson.
Its around 400 pages of formulas. There will be several formulas for black. If I can find my copy I can get the details for you.
Lionel
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wrote:

Please do - I'd like to get hold of a copy.
Regards,
--
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
www.shwoodwind.co.uk
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Hi Martin, I knew that I had seen this somewhere, just had to hunt for it. Hope it helps. Cheer's, Ian.
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&selm=6sc4vu%24o0f%241%40camel21.mindspring.com
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Thanks Ian,
Looks easy, I'll give it a go next week.....
Martin L
On 3 Jan 2004 04:11:49 -0800, spamsutherland snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com.au (ian) wrote:

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I might have trouble finding the Arsenic trioxide, seems to be used to treat lukeamia, , but muriatic acid is just hydrochloric acid.
Martin L
On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 12:18:16 +0000, Stephen Howard

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published
details
Have found the book and here are the details.
The Colouring, Bronzing and Patinisation of Metals
Richard Hughes and Michael Rowe.
ISBN 0 500 01501 5
Published 1991 Republished 1995
Recipes for colouring
Cast Bronze, 213 recipes Cast yellow Brass, 208 recipes Copper and Copper Plate, 228 recipes Gilding metal, 207 recipes Sheet Yellow Brass, 201 recipes Silver and Silver Plate, 69 recipes
There are several colour pages showing over 200 of the results of test strips by the authors of the book. Reference listing archaic chemical names and modern equivalents. The bibliography lists 404 references where the listed recipes originated.
Book priced at 35 when I bought it. I bought this a couple of years back with some book tokens that were received one Christmas.
Maybe it can be ordered in at you local library?
Regarding black colour requested by original poster of this thread.
Blue/Black Copper Carbonate Ammonia Water
Black/Slate Grey Sodium Thiosulphate Water Copper Sulphate Water
Dark Slate Sodium thiosulphate Ferric nitrate Water
Matt Black Copper Sulphate Water Sodium thiosulphate Lead acetae Water
Black Semi Gloss Sodium thiosulphate Ferric nitrate Water
Above lists chemicals used, each has a description in the book explaining how each recipe is done. There are several references warning not inhaling fumes and keeping mixture away from skin and protecting your eyes.
Hope this is of interest.
Lionel
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<snip>
Much appreciated Lionel.
Regards,
--
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
www.shwoodwind.co.uk
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Thanks Lionel.
I tried the recipie from Ians reference, which is the same as you quote:
Ammonia Copper Carbonate Water
And my test pieces have gone a nice shiny black :)
Now I will see if they change to grotty green or something this week, then I will have a go at the real thing.
Cheers all
Martin L
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Hi Martin,
Where did you get the amonia from ? I've been looking for ages but the only place I've ever seen it is in a supermarket in France and I was hiking at the time so it wasn't very convenient to get some then.
Thanks,
--
Boo





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wrote:

If it's any help, I got a Winchester of it from my local chemist. It wasn't that easy, it was perhaps only down to the fact that I'd been a regular customer for some time that he agreed to sell me it - apparently it's the stuff that criminals use to incapacitate security guards and the like!
If you're at all known by your local chemist, and you explain what you need it for, you might have some luck. Alternatively, if you're based anywhere near Hampshire I'm sure I could spare a bottle...I only bought the stuff to add to a special potion I use to clean wood, and a bottle of this stuff requires just two or three drops of ammonia! I figure I have enough to last a few hundred years!
Regards,
--
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
http://www.shwoodwind.co.uk
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Hi folks, having only just joined this list I missed the beginning of this thread. could you tell me where you aquire the Copper Carbonate please? up to now I have always used Liberon Tourmaline which isnt that satisfactory, sometimes it just doesnt take to the metal and goes patchy. Another problem that someone may be able to answer is I have aquired a new 2850 rpm motor with a 5/8'' shaft, I would like to use it to drive a TAIG lathe but the pulley bore is only 1/2'' and cannot be bored out because i would lose the smallest diameter, any idea where I can get a pair of pulleys with 1/2'' and 5/8'' bores using a small section (Z?) belt,
best regards, Terry
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wrote:

Taig pulley bore is 5/8ths" ??
See spec on
http://www.taigtools.com/mlathe.html
-- Steve Blackmore
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wrote:

The headstock pulley is 5/8" bore. The motor pulleys can be either 1/2" or 11mm. They are sold in pairs (one headstock, one motor pulley). See price list on:
http://www.peatol.com /
The headstock pulley gets over the problem of losing the smallest diameter groove by not boring it 5/8" for the full length of the bore. You could probably do the same & bore out the 1/2" pulley, or persuade Peter Morrison to sell you a second headstock pulley or swap it for your 1/2" bore pulley.
Regards, Tony
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