By 'eck...

Beavers are even heavier....

Not sure how ours is going to come through the door, but it is a 3ft decline from the back of the trailer through the rear street door and down to the concrete, so it 'should' slide down gently... We will be stripping it down to constituent parts for the move from the farm, but picking it up in one piece from the seller. The farm has a fork truck or three....

Tends to make the cats a bit prickly but flying cats are often a useful distraction!

We will probably have the same problem as the concrete floor isn't screeded, so we will get hold of some 4" square 10g and 16g ali blanks to use as packing pieces on top of 1" ply. We do have some precision levels to set it up square and level.

Peter

-- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web:

Bloody wimp. Moved mine last week to make room for the 'new' CNC. lifted one side with a crowbar and slipped an 8' length of 3/8" round under one side. Did the same with the other and slid it along these bars like a railway line. Be buggered with rollers, one move, light bar pressure only and jobs a good un.

Did the same with the CNC but this is a bit heavier, still just needed the one 2' crowbar.

Change the wheels on the hoist for solid metal ones. We had a big 2 tonne crane at the garage for truck engines that was like this. The more weight you put on, the harder it was to move. The nylon wheels were squashing and acting as a brake on the axle. A swap to solid metal, just bar ends bored to fit the axle, made a vast difference. Put a good chamfer on the edges or crown them to stop the edges of the wheels digging in on a sideways move if you have to bar it over.

Mills aren't critical to level like lathes so a tad out isn't all the world.

-- Regards,

John Stevenson Nottingham, England.

Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:-

Might be worth trying a bit of squirty builders' foam under it first. Much easier than injecting concrete!

Cheers Tim

(Who did once make a DIY cement pressure grouting device,for stabilising sandstone copings, which did work but a lot of pi**ing about & very messy) Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service

That rings a bell, also you can use hard rubber matting to allow small discrepancies between machine and floor to be taken up, takes out a lot of vibration as well.

I've just picked up my 'new' hoist today, a cracking bit of kit but Bl**dy heavy! Epco 2-ton job, *steerable* wheels at the hoist end, plus the leg wheels are normally fixed but can be unlocked to allow them to castor for shunting the thing sideways. Oh, the wheels are all solid metal, too! Everything that moves has grease nipples, 3 height settings on the mast etc. I'll have to use the old one to lift it off the trailer, though!

Anyone want to buy a nice Harvey Frost 1-ton floor crane/hoist? Also a good solid piece of kit, not one of your machine mart self-folding jobs , but I don't need two.

Cheers Tim Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service

In article , John Stevenson writes

They already are. You'd have thought that the thick end of twenty stone leaning on it would have some effect, but there you go.

You might get away with doing it a corner at a time - remove enough floor at a corner to fix suitable "underpinnings" in place, much like they do when underpinning dodgy brick walls - that way, no need to move the beast any more.

Regards, Tony

I've found that you can achieve almost anything with profanity - with the signal exception of seduction!!

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This causes the mind to wonder (what you did in your misspent youth).