Cleaning fluids

For the small amount of cleaning of parts etc that I do I prefer to use 500ml spray cans of solvent. Since 111 Trichloroethane became Public Enemy No. 283 it seems to be difficult to find truly effective cleaners in spray cans. For instance, at present I'm using a product called TF-90 which I got from J&L. The details printed on the can say simply that it's a replacement for 111 Trichloroethane, without saying what it actually is. As a cleaner it's pretty useless; for instance, if I prepare a clean glass surface using meths or isopropyl alcohol then spray it with TF-90, a greasy residue is left after evaporation which is quite difficult to remove. I suspect that there is water in the product also. Sprayed onto a metal surface, there are many of what appear to be water droplets but I'll give it the benefit of the doubt that these may be condensation due to the cooling effect of the spray.

After that preamble, can I ask the group what cleaners they use, specifically in spray cans for direct use, and not of the spray on, wash-off-with-water type? How effective are they and are they completely residue-free?

I don't mind paying the money for the right product but want to avoid buying more of these expensive failures.

John

Reply to
Clockie
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I still use trike. But then again any one with one eye and three knackers can't be politically correct.

-- Regards,

John Stevenson Nottingham, England.

Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:-

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Reply to
John Stevenson

Try Loctite Super-clean.

(or it might be Klean or Kleen or some such )

I find it very good, I'll be interested to know whether that fits your bill.

Cheers Tim Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service

Reply to
Tim Leech

The only problem with long-term use is the effect it has on your spelling ;-)

Regards, Tony

Reply to
Tony Jeffree

Brake cleaner or carb cleaner are pretty effective and flash off very quickly. I suspect there may be pet-ether in it or similar. Carb cleaner is very aggressive in particular. I'm lucky enough to have an ultrasonic tank for particularly awkward jobs.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Neill

Use pre-paint solvent wipe . This is avalable from autopaint stores (CAR PAINT SUPPLIERS) It's about =A314.00 for 5 ltrs. it leaves no residue and is ment for getting any grease or oily film off a surface pror to painting. Can also be used on glass prior to glueing or sticking self adhesive lead on it. It does not attack or melt anything it comes into contact with. all the best...mark

Reply to
mark

Either of the standard car paint thinners (cellulose or synthetic) work well and are not particularly hazardous to health unless used and breathed in great quantities.

Isopropyl Alcohol or plain old Methylated Spirits also works well where the other stuff might attack plastics.

We also have some pretty violent 2K thinners by Lechler which takes off almost anything like paint and powder coat, but the fum,es are pretty awful so don't use that much.

Peter

-- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk

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Reply to
Prepair Ltd

effective

saying

doubt

spray.

avoid

I use perchloro-ethylene or 'perc' which took over as the drycleaning fluid of choice following the demise of tri-c..... it has the advantage that it is not inflamable - infact it extinguishes fires, but it does make everything in it's catchment area rust as it is a very good vapour degreaser.

I can get it by the 5 litre drum but cannot transport it !

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

In article , Peter Neill writes

Well, hellllloooooooo! I've always said what a nice man you are.

Haven't I, everybody? Great bloke.

Anyway, where was I?

Oh yeah, this ultrasonic tank of yours, whereabouts is it?

Only I might have a motorcycle carb or four would like to make your acquaintance! :^)

Cheers

Reply to
Nigel Eaton

Thanks to all who responded with suggested cleaning fluids. Lots of useful ideas and I'll go away and think about it.

John

Reply to
Clockie

Under the bench gathering dust:) (in Hadleigh, Suffolk)

Oddly enough thats what I bought it for originally. Does a sterling job too. Might have to orphan a bank of four into 2 pairs though. You're welcome to borrow it if you like.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Neill

Trike's good for thinning Hammerite paint and cleaning the brushe afterwards.

I'll bring my empty flagon down after Christmas. :D

Alla

-- Allan Waterfal

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Reply to
Allan Waterfall

Don't forget humble cigarette lighter fluid. Great for getting stubbor

price stickers and their residue off. Won't harm plastic either

-- DX-SF

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Reply to
DX-SFX

In article , Peter Neill writes

Ooh, not far away.

I may well take you up on that. OTOH, I know a large(ish) group of Lovers Of Shite Old Bikes. They tend to suffer from the dreaded gummed-up carb syndrome. If you ever decide you might want to make a few quid on the side, drop me an line and I'll bung an advert for your services in an appropriate place... ;^)

Cheers

Reply to
Nigel Eaton

I've been after one of them for ages .... I have outboards that gummed up on ebay they sell tiny ones that are too small...new The large ones they sell go for too higher price. anyone know how I can make one of these from everyday discarded objects.for practically nothing. I heard some story about speakers and amplifiers doing the job.. is this correct.? PS don't come back with stories on how I could up the amplitude and square the sine wave please :) ...that's for all those who want to show off with there Superior knowledge Won't impress me I'm afraid..just bore the hell out of me. because I won't it simple and not too mind bindingly complex. In other words in layman's terms.

all the best.mark

Reply to
mark

We have a small one here as well if anyone needs something cleaning. Ours has a heater as well.

Mullard used to produce these in-house for commercial sale. They used a pair of EL34 valves in push-pull to drive a BIG block of piezo-electric crystal which was bonded to the base of the stainless bowl. The crystals were about 8" X 6" X

1.5" and made up of smaller units bonded together, mechanically and electrically.

Frequency was pretty high, just about audible, and the electronics of the ones that didn't work were swiftly converted into 20-watt amplifiers!

Peter

-- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web:

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Reply to
Peter A Forbes

Reply to
Graham B

Reply to
Graham B

Its the curse of the pilot circuits:) They never get cleaned out properly. I was on a predominantly US bike forum for a while and everyone wanted to re-jet because the bike wouldn't run well, when all they really needed to do was unblock this circuit. Trying to explain what/where/how got so repetitive that I ended up drawing a downloadable

3D model (e-drawing) of the entire carb so they could understand it a bit more.

No cards in phone boxes please:)

Peter

Reply to
Peter Neill

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