How to remove the Apron from a Boxford AUD?

MMM

read somewhere that you just remove lead screw handwheel ... then wind the whole lot off the end of the lathe.

all the best.mark

Hi, not had m

Keith

You need to remove the complete saddle and apron rather than try and split the assembly on the lathe - the saddle stops the apron coming off by itself anyway

Remove/loosen the gib strip from the back of the saddle - 2 screws with a 5/16" hex key

Remove the right hand leadscrew support

Wind the whole lot off the end of the bed

Replace the lead screw support

Remove the top slide/toolpost first if you are a weakling

If there is a leadscrew thread indicator this should be removed as it tends to get in the way.

The gearbox is just three socket headed screws 1/4" iirc (the same size as the right hand leadscrew support)

Unless the headstock is removed you almost certainly won't be able to refit the gearbox single handed

There may also be a location dowel in the RH leadscrew support bearing

- it unscrews from above and needs to be taken out before winding the carriage off as it clouts something (can't remember what) in the back of the apron.

Richard

I did this recently on my AUD mkIII and it wasn't too difficult. The saddle came off first- two big cap screws securing it to the apron, the carriage clamp and the rear gib strip. Saddle lifts sraight off. You probably want to support the apron now. The lead screw support is removed and the apron is slid off the end. Turn the handwheel as you go.

I was initially concerned that there would need to be some end float adjustment when replacing the lead screw support but it was OK.

Archie

Hmm, never seen that in the half dozen or so Boxfords I've come across over the years.

Doing it that way can cause the leadscrew to bend under the weight of the apron, sliding the whole lot off the bed is much more gentle!

I forgot about the carriage clamp though - that hangs up on something at the RHS of the bed.

In my case, I already had the saddle off before I figure out that the apron had to slide off the end. I did say to support the apron though and my way, it is less of a hernia job. Either way, a third hand would help to support the leadscrew while the apron is removed.

Not sure what you meant by your comment "- the saddle stops the apron coming off by itself anyway"

to slide off the end. I did say to support the apron

help to support the leadscrew while the apron is

off by itself anyway"

If you just remove the cap screws fixing the saddle to the apron and do nothing to the saddle gib strip screws the apron won't physically clear the saddle - the gear drive to the cross slide power feed pinion stops it sliding sideways more than an inch or so - not a problem on a model C of course.

The leadscrew can at a push pivot/bend under the weight of the apron to give some clearance, maybe just enough in very long bed non gearbox models but nowhere near enough in standard bed and gearbox models for the power feed gear to completely miss the saddle. I saw someone do that many, many years ago and cringed as they bent their leadscrew! Supporting the leadscrew is a good thing at all times but I've found that sliding the saddle and apron off in one assembly is much easier - it's heavy but with the topslide removed not unmanageable, plus the leadscew is supported right up to the last few inches meaning an untrained assistant can cope with 'hang onto that' while you put the saddle and apron on the floor.

I've done it now, even remembered to support the lead screw befor removing the saddle so it didn't flop about too much.

Thanks to all the advisers, I was sure the apron came off withou undoing the leadscrew, but that is certainly the easy way.

Now to clean it

-- rss

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