Hi, anyone have a ball park figure for the cost of this... Otherwise do I look at a cheap metric mini lathe. I need to make some camera parts and adapters, not sure if the metric set for the Myford will be affordable...
Cheers
Joules
Hi, anyone have a ball park figure for the cost of this... Otherwise do I look at a cheap metric mini lathe. I need to make some camera parts and adapters, not sure if the metric set for the Myford will be affordable...
Cheers
Joules
Cheapest way of doing this is to pickup a 63 or a 127 tooth changewheel for the thread conversion and keep the half nuts engaged when screw cutting. Changing lead and feed screws/nuts will be pricey - easier to convert your drawings to imperial units.
Bob
Presumably this is for a Super 7 with gearbox. There are affordable options just need more info.
-- Regards,
John Stevenson Nottingham, England.
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Yep this machine has a gearbox, I just looked at the kit of parts shown in the back of my Myford manual, and thought Gosh, bet that costs a pretty penny.
On the option of changing the drawing, not an option, some parts need to be metric in order to fit existing equipment.
Joules
Right, whatever happens then you will need a new quadrant as the one you have fitted has fixed centre's. You will need the quadrant #234 Myford part number A2469 plus some extra gears. Two ways once you have this quadrant.
One is buy a 127 gear plus a few extra's to suit the pitches you need and leave the box in 8TPI
Second is buy the whole setup from Myfords at a cost of £192.62 if they have them in stock. You may have to wait whilst they nip down to the local beeroff for a shilling for the meter.
-- Regards,
John Stevenson Nottingham, England.
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Changing the units on a drawing does not change the size of the finished item - or at least not when I do it.
I guess with a handle like "Joules" you will be of the metric persuasion!
Bob
I bought a metric conversion set for my Super 7 a few weeks ago from RDG Tools, I notice they are not listing them at the moment but might be worth asking if they have any left. Although the finish is not up to Myford standards it works fine and was a good bit less than half the Myford cost. No connection etc just an impoverished paying customer.
Best regards Keith
In message , Bob Minchin writes
For camera parts I would go for the greater accuracy of conversion factor given by a 127 tooth wheel (127 x 2 = 254 and 25.4mm = 1"). Conversion change wheel tables have been published in past issues of both Model Engineer and Engineering in Miniature. Alternatively, if you are of the appropriate turn of mind, you could work out the ones you need with any spread sheet program on the PC.
There's a program on my web page already set up to do this. A partial list of results from that program...
Desired ratio = 1.27
47:37 => 1.270270 (0.021281%) ** 80:63 => 1.269841 (-0.012498%) **where the number in parentheses is the error in percent.
Much smaller errors can be had by using two gear pairs...
Desired ratio = 1.27
30:23 - 37:38 => 1.270023 (0.001802%) **The programs can be downloaded freely. They're all in the GEARFIND.ZIP archive.
Regards, Marv
Home Shop Freeware - Tools for People Who Build Things
Would this work with an ML7 with gearbox?
Dave.
Yes. Same gearbox.
-- Regards,
John Stevenson Nottingham, England.
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