Saw bench refurbish

A guy who posts on this group has a length of hex bar for making 5/8" BSW bolts and may chip in and offer to make one at a price.If you were on the doorstep I could make one from a bit of round bar and hex the head.It would not be cheap unless you were buying 100. Re the bearings,if possible take the shaft and bearings complete to an engineer. Re horsepower,for hand fed timber it is recommended 1.0 to 1.1/4hp per inch of diameter of the blade Mark.

here:

OK, I'll bite

Yes, I've got some 5/8" Whit hex bar, mild steel, I could make you a LH bolt if you wish for small numbers of beer tokens.

Cheers Tim

Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service

In article , " snipped-for-privacy@ems-fife.co.uk" writes

Wow, Mark - that sounds fearsome. I just checked my two sawbenches, and they are both approximately 2HP with 10" blades - about 0.2HP/inch.

These are home-use items rather than industrial, but they both cut pretty efficiently; I would have thought 1 - 1.25HP/inch would damn near put them into orbit.

David

Might sound fearsome but with a 36" blade you can cut 12/14" thick timber.Published figures not mine.I would be more worried about a 5/8" bolt holding it all together.Especially one that only cost ten pints. Mark.

My saw has, I think, 14" blades & a 3hp motor, but the original motor wa 5hp, I only have single phase where it is. It does struggle when using the max available depth.

Cheers Tim

Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service

That would be in the right range if you used Mark's suggestion with depth of cut rather than dia.

Russell

Tim Leech wrote:

Thanks for the useful comments. Today a friend and I managed to produce a perfect 5/8 LH thread Witworth bolt on his Myford, from hex stock. I think that this will be OK. There is a substantial locking pin and collar holding the blade to the boss.

I have a 40 Hp Fordson Power Major, but unfortunately no flat belt drive for it. Anyone got one? I still have a problem with disassembling the drive shaft. I do have an Asaa (Dutch) diesel which has a belt drive though. It needs a bit of work is all.

George

how wide and diameter

Andrew

Hi George,

I like those engines shown on your site. They're a little unusual. Some people don't like the larger industrial engines, but I do. That single cylinder Lister looks like it could be restored, but it's going to be a challenge (of course, anything can be restored with enough time and money). I'd be interested to know how you get on. The end result would definitely be worth the effort!

Those Blackstones in the desert look unusual too. I don't think I've seen one quite like that before.

Best wishes,

Chris

Hi George. I think you're right about your saw being built by the original acrowprop folks, but I'm not exactly sure. As for the Fordson pulley, I think a mate has one on a hulk he's parting out. I'm going up tomorrow (Sat. 26/01/07) to do some gas axe work (well, BOC Bantam work at least) for him so I'll find out if it's spoken for. Is that a Ransomes Robin in your 4th photo?. Powerwise I was taught to measure the max blade height above the table and multiply this by 1.5 to get the horsepower. Some might say overkill, but it has never failed for me (the last 60" rackbench I rebuilt can slice 2' Coastal Redwood/Douglas Fir without making the engine bark!) HTH. Cheers, Scruff.

Thanks Scruff,

It is a 1960 4 cylinder diesel Fordson with a front end loader, I would be glad of a PTO flat belt pulley. The 4th photo shows my old single furrow plough that I am also straightening out, I haven't a clue who made it but I can easily take a better photo if you are interested. Is it interesting then? Will this sawbench be OK bolted to 4" of concrete in the drive?

Regards George.

The pulley unit was already spoken for, sorry. 4" of good concrete=20 should be fine for a nice heavy saw like yours (they don't move much=20 when working). I have an old single furrow plough for beating the veg=20 plot into submission, but I could never be called a ploughman lol.=20 Some people seem quite happy to give frightening prices for ploughs...

Cheers, Scruff.

I got the end collar off by heating it, but I don't think I can heat up the pullies without the shaft getting just as hot. I have put a couple of pictures of the plough on the same page of my website:

Regards George.

Looks like a leg to support the plough when it's not on the tractor. It should fold down somehow. Ransome stand legs were never the most meaty looking things, but were still more than capable of holding up the plough.