I suspect you are dealing with larger objects. I was trying to take photos fully zoomed out and getting too close as the objects were v small. If the objects are not too close for the camera, then it would presumably be better to keep it zoomed out and get up close (that way you get less camera shake and max depth of field). If the objects are too small for that, then back off to the minimum distance and zoom.
I hope that makes sense - it is late !
Cheshire Steve
In article , Mark Rand writes
Ah yes, never used one of those.
It certainly wouldn't be.
David
I got a nice present at Xmas from SHMBO - a Sony A100 which is based on the Minolta body so it uses all the AF Minolta lenses in the bag with my film body. I'm still getting used to using it :)
At least with a digital camera you can check the results and try again. I've old shots of some work on film that could have done with being re-shot, but waiting for films to be developed ...
The zoom would do you no good on the Canon 'A' series - the super-close focus capability only exists at "full wide" end of the zoom.
Looking at the spec for your camera:
You don't have shutter or aperture priority modes (semi-manual operation) so doing "tricks" is harder.
Looking in the manual:
It looks like Portrait Mode, + Macro might be your best options, in conjunction with a tripod and the use of the self-timer.
However, a simple experiment would be to use all 7 modes, and then review both the quality of the images, and the actual exposures used - these can be looked at using any file viewer that supports EXIF.
BugBear
Thanks for the links - I couldn't find the paper manual (no doubt it will turn up). I have run some tests and 20cm (8 inches) would seem about right - for the really small stuff I was getting too close. I have dug out my tripod, and will experiment further. I have a really old version of PaintShop Pro I use for twiddling images, I was thinking of buying an updated copy today, but don't know how it compares with other products (and its about =A385). My main use it to correct brightness and contrast, though it would be great to colour correct for artificial lighting at a stroke. Maybe there's something a lot simpler and cheaper that will do this for me - though the Olympus supplied Camedia software that comes with the camera is a bit too basic.
Cheshire Steve
Gimp or Gimpshop are powerful and free
Depending on its age, PaintShop Pro (I think from v8) has a "one stop photo fix" function which corrects most lighting errors fairly painlessly. If it doesn't do it perfectly in one hit, undo, and try each of its steps in turn.
Paintshop Pro is a good package, though most people tend to spend a bit more on Adobe equivalents.
Otherwise, as others have said, Gimp has most features and is free.
Final option, I used to use a small package called "ccastfx", which I recall being free. Simulates the old wratten filter numbers.
- Nigel
The contour/histogram feature in Gimp is great, just what I was looking for - and I can see interesting projects in Sourceforge. Like a new free operating system being developed (yeah I know Linux is free but its still 1970s Unix at heart). Interesting !
Steve
I use a Canon G5 semi pro/compact fitted with a very cheap ring flash o
the lens guard extension tube.
You can get in pretty close and not worry about lighting problems o very small subjects.
Its getting a bit long in the tooth now but it is such a versatil camera I might just buy another 2nd hand one from ebay, to put away i case this one ever lets me down.
Phi
-- pgp00
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