Airbrushes

Yes, yet another post, this time about airbrushes. As some of you may recall I bought a bunch of krylon paint. My returned glossy stuff is another issue....however....

I've found that I like building and especially painting / finishing these modelsl.....as much so that when I attend my first rocketeer / fest, I just might have a dozen or so rockets in the trunk of my car just dying for engines....virgins....so to speak.

I've been thinking about getting an airbrush. I have a hobby shop in town that shows you how to use 'em. Nice 'eh? I'll be there next Thursday.....And of course they want to sell you the model/brand they have but I've been reading much about them online such as here:

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I saw a color palate of spray paint (the can type) and then I saw a color palate of available airbrush paints.

Needless to say, my jaw almost dropped.

I immediately saw metallic candy apple nose cones etc.......

Any advice?

Reply to
Zman
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There are other options besides Badger. A good single action airbrush by Paasche, the "H Model" is *perfect* for model rocketry, and fairly inexpensive to boot. I find the Paasche airbrushes preferable over those by Badger, as the Paasches are a tad bigger, and seem to be made more robustly, and conservatively (just like the Abu-Garcia Ambassadeur 5000 bait-casting reel....why over-tinker, and try to "improve" something that has been so successful for decades and decades?). But, choice in airbrushes is a matter of personal taste. Use what works best, and feels most comfortable to *you*....not what a salesman tells you.

Don't be fooled by "salesmanship"...there is really no such thing as an "airbrush paint". *Any* paint, with fine enough pigmentation, can be used in a standard hobby airbrush. This includes just about *all* paints you will find in a hobby shop, or craft store...be they enamels, acrylics, oils, etc. It is just a matter of mastering the fine art of thinning, air-pressure, etc.

Reply to
Greg Heilers

Thanks for the reply. The only reason I mentioned Badger is because...plain and simple...they had an informitive website i.e. airbrush 101.

I know little to less about airbrushes so your spiel about the Paasche line has more than peaked my curiosity...I'll check it out.

Thanks a bunch for the info.

eric

Reply to
Zman

Just had to look....I have an Abu-Garcia 5500C , a little banged up from boat bottoms but it still works perfectly. I know what you mean.

Checked out the site for the H-Set....That's what I'll get.

Thanks.

eric

Reply to
Zman

Greg, shoot me an email

you fisherman you!

snipped-for-privacy@takethisoutforspam.verizon.net

Reply to
Zman

Doesn't Michaels sell the Paasche air brushes? Thinking along the lines of those 40% off coupons.

Ted Novak TRA#5512 IEAS#75

Reply to
the notorious t-e-d

Yes they do. Use the 50% coupons like I did.

Reply to
Phil Stein

I'd recommend the Paasche VL set over the H. I like the double actions for blending colors on the rocket. You can also use them pretty much like single action airbrushes if you so desire. The set gives you everything you'll need for a very long time.

you'll also need either an air compressor, or something like a CO2 tank from a welding shop. The tank has the advantage of being silent and constant. My experience with most airbrush compressors has been pretty bad. They pulse when you're trying to put down a heavy coat. You can get a small compressor with a tank, filter, and regulator at Harbor Freight for about the same as the airbrush compressor.

It will also run a touchup sprayer, which is what I use for larger rockets. Get the gravity feed type instead of the siphon.

I have an Iwata BC airbrush. It's really great for fine detail, but not very good for the sort of painting you'll do on a rocket.

I use a 2 HP compressor with a 20 gallon tank. It's really overkill for airbrushing. :-)

Hope this helps, Dave Ambrose

Reply to
Dave Ambrose

Don't even consider anything that isn't dual action (you control both the paint and air flows) and internal mix. The cans of air are a joke. Figure that a good compressor is going to cost more than the airbrush. And another bunch of $$$ for accessories (hose, moisture trap, assorted color bottles, different tips and needles, etc.)

The Paasche VL is the one I'd recommend. I've ocasionally seen them at Michaels (wait for the 50% off coupon!)

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!

Reply to
Bob Kaplow

I'd vote for double action and recommend the VL over the H.

Mine is actually an ML8, pre WWII, but is virtually identical to the current VL. Over a decade ago it needed some repairs, so over lunch hour, I took it back to their factory. THey fixed a couple problems, did 2 upgrades to it, cleaned it, and gave it back to me in like new condition. Cost? about $10! I inquired if they regularly see stuff as old as mine, and they replied that the see stuff MUCH older on a regular basis.

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!

Reply to
Bob Kaplow

Refer to

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6.

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!

Reply to
Bob Kaplow

Yes...the VL is superior; but since I read the original post as this would be a *first* airbrush, I recommended the H model. It is perfect for

95% of the "model rocketry" painting needs. Although I mostly use double action brushes now; I began with a Paasche H, and used it for over a decade...and usually on 1/72nd scale aircraft and armor. I was still able to paint multi-colored, feathered-edged paint schemes, and even do shading, highlighting (a.k.a. "panel fading"), and weathering; with th H model...so I think it would be fine for most rocketry work. And for the airbrush "newbie", the H model is far easier to learn, control, and most importantly, easier to *clean* than the VL...lol...(I *detest* cleaning an airbrush. I find dental procedures far more comfortable...)

Yes...once you get the hang of airbrushing, on models... absolutely

*nothing* beats an Iwata.

Better to "overkill", than "underkill". I have never been able to master airbrushing at low pressures, as many modelers/artists do. And you can never have too *big* a reservoir.

Reply to
Greg Heilers

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