Aztek airbrushes..

I'm thinking of buying an Aztek set and was wondering what the differences are between the A470 and A430 models? I assume they can both take the same range of nozzles etc.. Even the Testors site isn't too forthcoming..

Is the little blue Aztek compressor worth having, Or would I be better off looking for one with a tank, regs etc?

And finally, Does anyone have any experience with the 'Vallejo Model Air' range of acrylic paints? Coverage, dilution, colour match etc///

I should mention it will be mostly used for 1/48th aircraft with the occasional F1 car etc..

TIA,

Tony.

Reply to
Tony Gartshore
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The 470 has a trim to set how far back the needle will go when you pull the trigger. This is quite useful to draw very fine lines. Basically, it turns the airbrush into a single action one: you control the airflow and the airbrush takes care of all the hairy stuff.

If you can afford it, go for a compressor with a tank, a moisture trap and a pressure regulator. Anyway, a pressure regulator is a must on any compressor. On an Aztec, useful pressures range from .5 bars (fine nozzle, gravity-fed) to 2.5 bars (wide coverage nozzle, bottom feed)

Good coverage, dries on the needle if not thinned enough. Doesn't like X-20A or isopropyl, demineralized water works best. Can't say for colour match, it's not something I worry about.

Reply to
Serge D. Grun

on 5/24/2007 2:51 PM Serge D. Grun said the following:

Yep. The only time the color is right is when it's still in the can. After that, many factors come into play, including weather and lighting.

Reply to
willshak

I've heard a few comments from Aztek compressor users, none of them too positive. From personal experience, I can recommend the Iwata Silverjet. Not much more money than the Aztek and a thoroughly well sorted bit of kit. Quiet enough for 2am airbrushing sessions too, if that's your thing.

As a former Aztek user, I'll offer some advice; ignore the dread warning in the manual not to strip the tips down. Remove the nozzle from the tip body, and gently pull out the needle. Don't pull the spring off the needle. Soak all 3 components in a suitable cleaner, and reassemble. My own tips lasted for several years cleaned this way.

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Reply to
flak monkey

True. And I'll add that a small, entry-level ultrasonic cleaner, such as the one here:

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is a good complement to any airbrush...

Reply to
Serge D. Grun

On the Model Color and Model Air paints be really carefull how you thin them. With anything but demineralised water you run the risk of paint separation or blockages. With the Model color paints and a brush this is not as big a deal but when you airbrush its a pain in the rear. I now wont use Model color for airbrushing at all because of the issues with blockages in the airbrush and paint separation. Example a single color thinned even with water can start to do weird things like Brown starts to turn yellow and black and therefore you get uneven results. When brushing this is no biggy you just stir and hey presto the paint is back to brown. Its not so easy in the paint cup on the airbrush 1 or 2 minutes into a session.

Dont under any circumstances use any alcohol based thinner. My local hobby store said use Tamiya thinner it owrks great with Model color. Very bad advise it made the paint separate faster and caused it to congeal.

Reply to
fokkereiv

Thank you to all who replied..

Very useful, especially the warnings about the paint ! Perhaps I'll stick to Xtracrylic.

T.

Reply to
Tony Gartshore

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