Best Pyrogen survey

Cons:

1) Sometimes pyrogen will "pop" instead of ignite, if igniter not made carefully (multi-dipping the pyrogen). 2) Sometimes won't ignite really hard to light (old) propellant. This can be solved by scraping the propellant prior to inserting igniter.

Hi Daniel,

I must point out that our included instructions clearly state that you should "never double dip the electric match as this will result in the igniter poping rather than igniting."

Our pyrogen uses Magnesium powder which requires a lower temprature to ignite (around 680 F) and burns at a temprature of around 6,400 F. This is why you should never stare directly at the burning pyrogen if doing an open burn test.

Other pyrogens use much cheaper costing metals such as Pyro Aluminum powder that require a higher starting temprature than Magnesium powder and only produce a final burning temprature of around 4,566 F.

Greg Dyben Rocketflite/Magnelite

Not according to tests involving NFPA. These involved counting spark impacts in the diameter around the launch pad. The fire risk was negligable, and thus sparkys are allowed under the safety code.

I've never done a sparky, but I do have some ti flake on hand to try one of these days.

Mike F.

Not to mention that the primary factor which truly defines fire risk level is: Location. I wouldn't launch a 1/4A motor from a field of dry, knee high grass and weeds. Many parts of the desert are so devoid of flammables that you could horizontally static fire a daisy ring of Skidmark M's, and the only "disaster" would be the tragic waste of some cool motors. :)

Like I say... I bought some from Just Rockets

- and I understand that Hobby Connection in Elma NY has it in stock. Both are great suppliers. I think that Hobby Connection is going to be at LDRS in July. You could order and pick it up if you are coming to LDRS.

I have been playing with the Igniterman conductive dip and pyrogen. I am finding that the conductive dip and pyrogen light quickly and burn fiercely for a second or two.

When I use nichrome bridgewire, I am having varying results - the best is instant ignition and fierce burn as above, but with a lower current requirement to get it going. The worst is likewise but a short delay before it begins to burn, which to me is unacceptable.

I am going to (a) try changing my wirewrapping technique to see if it improves time to ignition; and (b) try the Magnalite pyrogen on top of both conductive primer and nichrome bridgewire. If the Magnalite pyrogen, as stated on RMR, requires a lower temp to get going - it may start a lot faster either way.

I will report back.

Now... what do I do with the Firestar pyrogen kit that I have? Anyone have any comments on the Firestar Pyrogen kit?

Here is what their website states... sounds like a claim to be the BEST to me. Anyone want to comment?

From Firestar website:

The FireStar Electric Match produces the same plasma ball but with one great difference! From within the plasma ball there is a release of literally thousands of white hot metal particles, (over 5900 Deg. F.). These particles are like miniature shooting stars that slam into the surface of the propellant creating a crater hundreds of atoms deep. The crater in turn produces a large propellant debris field that is hurled upward in the heart of the expanding plasma ball. This propellant debris field immediately ignites adding its energy to the main plasma burst. Thus, the FireStar Electric Match is a Volume Penetration Burn. The chart below summarizes the results:

Wimp Igniters -------------------------------- Surface Hot-spots Igniter with more Ignition Material ------ Full Surface Burn FireStar Electric Match ------------------- Full surface + Volume Penetration Bum

With Volume Penetration Burn your Rocket Motor will leap oft the launch pad leaving your competition eating your rocket motor exhaust gases!

-------- end of quote -----------------

Tnx for all of the input.

Murray

P.S. We tried dipping a couple of Oxral e matches into Igniterman pyrogen. WOW. Instant (and I mean INSTANT! ignition of the pyrogen using an old 9V battery. THAT's the way I will go for airstarts I think. Comments?

I note with some interest that Firestar = Scott Dyben, President Magnelite = Greg Dyben

My curiousity is killin' me - what's the relationship AND is the pyrogen the same formulation?

Thanks. Sorry for being nosey. More interested in the pyrogen than the family history.

Murray

We did the "worst" Firestarter test at Ocotillo which has very dry but somewhat spread out plants. We fired a K125-FS (54mm) in a Sonic 3100 set for instability.

It generated about 20 seconds of terror, land shark, massive plant impingement and NO FIRES.

Sad really. Considering it was called Firestarter and everything.

Just TECH Jerry

I prefer it 100% of the time.

Who is "we"? (remember, "less than two employees")

You were sad because you could not start a fire?

Firestar, Magnelite, and RocketFlite are all the same family. ne of the Dybens would better be able to explain any differences in the pyrogen. From a user standpoint I've used both and not noticed any significant difference.

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!

We are brothers and our businesses support each other.

The FireStar pyrogen is different in that uses a different elastomer & oxidizer and contains one additional metal. Both pyrogens were formulated by myself.

BUT THE MAIN DIFFERENCE is that purchasing Magnelite pyrogen & wires helps raise funds for bringing back the Rocketflite motor line. FireStar profits go to my brother.

Greg Dyben Rocketflite/Magnelite