I had some unexpectedly good results from a batch of igniters that I made up using my 3-year-old bottle of IM conductive primer / pyrogen. I sent the note below to Robert B, but thought that I'd also post it here too, to see if anyone else has had similar results/observations
I just finished making nearly two hundred E-G (28, maybe 32 gauge) igniters. I sat down last night and checked resistance on everyone of them. Much to my chagrin, only a handful came in in the 1-10 ohm range, and nearly equal amounts came in in 10-ohm increments (10-20,
20-30, etc), upto 100 ohms. I also had quite a few that came in between 100 and 500 ohms. I thought that I'd totally wasted my time and had made nearly 200 duds. But, I'll be damned if my 9.6v NiMH controller didn't ignite the igniters, all the way up to 550 ohms. The higher resistance igniters took a second or second-and-a-half to light, but still not too bad. After 550-ohm, my next step up was ~750 ohms, which would not ignite.Doing the math, I = E/R, a 9.6v battery and a 500 ohm resister only pumps 0.019 amps. Is it common for current this low to light your conductive primer, or is there something else going one that accounts for the unexpected high-resistance performance? I don't know if this matters, but my bottle of IM sealer had dried up and I stole a bottle of my wife's clear fingernail polish to use as the sealer.
Anyway, I had always believed that resistance had to be between 1 and
10 ohms for reliable igniter performance. I understand that my personal relay controller is probably more effecient than most complex multi-channel club controllers; so, a little more added resistance through that circuitry may be too much of a voltage drop ( and thus a proportional drop in current through the igniter head) to light the higher-resistance igniters. As I am neither an electrical wizard nor a chemist, I'd be really interested to hear some theories about why these high-resistance igniters actually burn.Chuck