Re: Storing motor casings

I have long thin "bags" made of flannel I put mine it. There's a flap at the end, and two ties, so I can flip it closed, then tie it. They're not fancy, but they keep 'em from banging together and getting damaged.

Something I recently learned about, which is the ultimate in easy is

-Kevin

Hard sided plastic pistol case.

J.A. Michel

When we got out 38mm Dr Rocket set the seller sent them in sexy little cuorderoy drawstring sleeves. A nice touch. But I believe the Cesaroni setup with the flexible vinyl tube and plastic caps is also a great way to store casings. You can then throw them into a cardboard box without a scratch.

Chuck

I bought a set for my AT cases at:

Patrick

My 38 and 29 mm cases are in a small aluminum tool case I found at Menards. My 54 mm cases are in an Large Aluminum tool case I found at Wal*Mart. It was on clearance for $20.00 plus it was full of barbecue tools. The cases are individually stored in a plastic expandable sleeve we have at work. It stops them banging into each other. Bill Richardson TRA 8703 L2

Clear Protective Cases for Motors.

You can even get the 54mm protection too if needed.

I use polyethelene mesh sleeving from McMaster-Carr. Check out their part number 5969K23 which I use for 29mm Dr. Rocket casings. The sleeving is commonly used to protect the surface of tubular items from storage damage at Nuclear Power Plants.

Ken Holloway

Thanks for the MC Master site, For $18.43 I can get two Twist fit containers for my 18/20 and 20/44 reload casings, and tubes and end caps to fit my 2

This is sort of a funny thread. We take such care of motor casings, lovingly covering them in bubble wrap and then gently laying them in velvet cases. And then we take 'em out, stuff 'em full of a propellant that has HCl as an exhaust component. Send 'em up several thousand feet at speeds approaching or exceeding mach. And hope that the 'chute opens on the way back down.

thanks Mike. I toss mine in the rocket box, at the bottom. I few wipes with "orange wipes" and they look new again. one even had to be pulled out of the ground.

I do like the displays others are talking about, to display them for sale, he he..

art

I ordered these on Wednesday, and received all but one of the Twist containers today. The cut to fit and red end caps are of the same quality, and look to be the same type of material as the Pro38 case came in, with the exception that the red end caps have a "square" end to keep the tube from rolling. I got enough caps I replaced the black ones on my Pro 38 case tube, so that they all match. I will post a picture of the tubes and end caps on ABMR shortly!

Mine too, except for my Pro38's which are in their original plastic tubes. I suppose that if someone was really finicky about their motors, it's be easy and cheap enough to use pieces of PVC pipe with endcaps.

Mark Simpson NAR 71503 Level II God Bless our peacekeepers

I've also seen people use PVC pipe with one sealed end cap and one screw-on end cap. Some for storage and some for cleaning (filled with solvent).

-John

Works great on rods and rails too!

Joel. phx

Yes. Use WD40.

Even pressure caps.

I've used vinegar. Both ends of my pipe get a slip-caps. Tap on tightly. Won't they stick you ask? Clean several rods at once (including a 1/2") and when done place over bucket and raise then drop briskly ('shake once' type of thing). The force of the rods slamming against the bottom cap popped it off. In my case, unintentionally. Otherwise hitting the edge of the cap with a block of wood, alternating hits to either side will pop the cap off.

Joel. phx

ROCINews had an article about this in the September 2001 issue.

Mario Perdue NAR #22012 Sr. L2 for email drop the planet

Ditto. Including one that spent over a week in the top of a tree, and another that spent 2 months in a swamp...

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!

If you use some Teflon tape on the threads of the removable end, you should get a reasonably liquid-tight seal.

-dave w