Alclad trouble

TimeLess wrote: : : and sides of the fuselage. Anyone any ideas as to what I did wrong? Could : it be that the tamiya paint hadn't fully cured (I waited somewhere between : 12 and 24 hours before applying the Alclad)? : Sounds like it. People I have talked to say that you either apply a second color/coat of Tamiya spray paint right away, or you wait weeks, else it will crack/craze.

Alclad makes their own primer. That may be worth a try. Or try Polly S. I have found few things that bother that stuff once dry.

Bruce

Or use SnJ Spray Metal and don't worry about primer. Scott There is a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness."

Alclad II instructions mention something about an acrylic primer; they mean acrylic LAQUER which is different than Tamiya acrylic. This is the neccessary primer for Alclad II. I think Tamiya offers a laquer in their spray line, no way to tell which you used from your post. Alclad can be fun but like Scott said, try the SNJ. Hope this helps,

Keeper (of too much crap)

You used the wrong undercoat. See

I might, when I'm out of Alclad. Neither is easily found around here though.

Thanks for the reply.

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Aha, that's it. I had read the site, but apparently missed the "spray" in tamiya spray paint.

What to do next? Is it safe to assume that any reactions between the undercoat and Alclad have stabilised by now? Or will other cracks appear in the future? I'm hoping that all it'll take is some sanding, polishing and a new coat of Alclad. Otherwise: anyone have any good suggestions for a decal sheet for a non-nmf F-86D in 1/48?

Thanks in advance, Sven

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Sven:

A couple of questions: Tamiya makes both an aqueous Acrylic paint and an acrylic lacquer. Which did you use? Second, did you use any kind of gloss overcoat like Johnson's Klear, Klar, or Future over the black? The reasons I ask are that the Tamiya lacquer dries fairly fast while the aqueous acrylic can take a week to completely evaporate out and dry. If it is overcoated before it is completely dry, it will continue to dry and shrink under the overcoat and will develop cracks. Actually, this applies to all the acrylic and latex based (old Poly-S) aqueous paints. Many years ago i built a 1/32 scale Bf-109T and used Poly-S paint. I overcoated with Future before decaling and then more future. If you look closely today there is a pattern of fine cracks all over the model. 2 feet away it looks O.K. but close inspection is another thing. Lesson learned the hard way. Any of the aqueous based paints should have a week before overcoating, unless you have a dehydrator. I like Tamiya paints, I have a Falcon 1/48 scale Hawker Seahawk sitting down in the cellar drying now. They just take more patience than enamels.

Bill Shuey

It was indeed the aqueous acrylic paint, and I didn't overcoat the black. This would seem to be the problem. Any ideas on a fix, short of stripping the paint and starting over again? The finish doesn't have to be perfect, I don't do shows, and there are no model critics around here - well, except for my girlfriend, and she doesn't give my models that much attention...

Sven Van Loo

Sven:

You already had a good suggestion above, overcoat with a coat of Future and then give it another coat of Alkaloid. Should do fine.

Bill Shuey

Alclad!, Not alkaloid! Damn spellchecker is too quick sometimes!

Bill Shuey

yea sure, you were thinking of your other ng

Thanks for the replies everyone. They've been a great help.

Sven

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