I've been using one of these for about 3 months, and today I've lost air
flow thro' the unit.
When the trigger is depressed, nothing happens, and similarly when the
plunger is depressed with the valve and casing removed.
It looks as if the plunger comes out by undoing the valve screw using a
tiny Allen key, but I'm reluctant to try that without advice as it looks
pretty easy to wreck the whole thing.
Can anyone advise on this and/or other ways to clear the valve?
This problem sometimes happens on my Badger 150( I think it is anyhow) after
I have deep cleaned it by leaving it imeresed in cellulose thinners. I find
that a lack of airflow is ususally caused by the seals swelling up somewhere
in the body of the airbrush and will cure itself once everything has had
time to dry out a bit.
I've had this problem previously with a 200 as well, it was not a regular
fault and seemed to happen inconsistently, however, if you remove the valve
screw with an Allen key, you can withdraw the plunger and spring and I found
giving them a wipe with a thinner soaked rag helps. Be very careful however
as the spring is very small and easily misplaced.
As Rory mentioned in his post, leaving the unit to dry may also assist, as I
could never find a common cause or symptom and leaving the unit overnight
sometimes cured it.
I eventually moved up to a Badger 100 which allows more precise detail work,
but I still use the 200 for general painting jobs.
Wow...my 150 is currently in the *same* condition. Good to see some
info on this...
But it has been this way for quite sometime. No "drying out" period
seems to help. Also, there seems to be less than the "correct"
amount of travel, with the trigger....
It seems that you got a bit of lacquer thinner (or something similar)
down in the air valve under the trigger. For some unknown reason Badger
uses an O-ring that is not thinner friendly. If you can disassemble the
valve and let it dry out. If not you can get just the O-ring for about a
buck. If you can't find one give Denbigh Hobby Center at (
) an E-mail. I know for a fact they have a few on the
This problem caused me to stop using a Badger 210 in the 1980's. No matter
how carefully I cleaned it, I could only get it to work once or twice. I
sent it back to Badger several times. They cleaned it and sent it back and
it worked. They told me I wasn't cleaning it right, but never told me how
to do it correctly.
I shifted to the external mix brush, and haven't had any problems with it.
Funny...I'm using the same Badger 200 I've been using since I was about
14. I've never taken it apart, only run thinner through it until it
came out clear, and then stored it with the needle fully closed. Been
doing this for the last 30-odd years, and have never once had it once
clog, spit, or fail to do what I've asked of it.
I have a second 200 and a 150 that are still virgins. My original one
just plain keeps working. Surprises me to hear otherwise from folks...
I concur with sir Rufus.
I have been using a 200/150/10GXF since 1979. I have never had a problem
although I have cleaned and or replaced most parts except the body. I
have used almost all the other airbrushes and always go back to my
Many thanks for the very swift response.
I had also been dunking it in cellulose thinners
Letting it dry out overnight has done the trick.
I'll make very sure I don't get cellulose thinners in the air valve again!
Not a prob , glad to be of some help.I continue to use cellulose thinners as
it does a good job of cleaning the air brush, just blow it through untill
all the traces of paint are gone and then its on to the next colour Now that
you know how to cure the problem why bother changing?
Same here - I've been using my 200 for about 20 years and never had to
take the air valve apart. I've replaced other items like nozzles,
needles and their teflon washers but never the air valve.
I use it mostly to spray Enamels and Lacquers (some pretty hot) and Tamiya
I clean it by running 3 batches of Lacquer Thinner (probably similar to
the Cellulose stuff). I also totally unscrew the needle and clean it.
This is done right after I'm done painitng.
The paint jar is empty.
I squirt 3 pipette-fulls into the dirty paint jar. Swish around and spray out
the thinned paint. Next, another 3 pipette-fulls. Spray out again while
openning and closing the needle. I also put a paper towel close to the nozzle
while the needle is wide open. That causes some of the thinner to wash the
face of the tip and also some back pressure to "gurgle" some of the thinner
back into the bottle. Once that batch is gone, I again squite 3 pipette-fulls
into the now clean bottle and just spray it all out while closing and openning
Once in a while, I take the nozzle apart and clean the insides of the paint
path. I don't really get any Lacquer Thinner into the air passages.
I soak the front end of my Badger 150 prior to a total cleaning. The front end
fits nicely in the small Badger bottle with a little propping. I soak it in
laquer/cellulose thinners overnight and then clean all the paint areas with
cotton buds/pipe cleaners etc. The thinners never have an opportunity to
contact the air trigger so keeping thinners away from the trigger is a good
The Keeper (of too much crap!)