Cheap but realistic water

Is this in 1/72nd scale? In that small of a scale, there really should not be any "clear-ness" to the water. Simply a section of sheet styrene, painted a dark, glossy blue/green/brown (depending on the nature of the water), with some subtle shading and highlighting, should work nicely.

would using clear sheet, painted on the underside offer any realism?

Craig

I had always wanted to to this but have not got around to it yet - to repose several old and damaged armor models as having been shot up while fording a shallow river. The water will come up to the top of the tracks. My plan to simulate water is to use soft gel wax, the stuff you see in curio shops, where they embed a coral reef scene and fishes for example, and there is a wick on top for you to light it as a candle.

I found a specialist crafts shop in my city that sells the wax supplies to hobbyists as well as to craft manufacturers. There is probably one in any mid sized city. The wax is normally clear but can be dyed and sculpted. I supplose its hardness can also be formulated to suit. That coral reef curio suggests that you can include underwater details like weeds. reeds and perhaps some fish in your diorama.

A lot less than $20 should get you there.

Yes it would. I was going to get into that....but didn't want to write an essay...lol. One local guy here, uses clear "shower door" plastic, that has a "water-ish" texture on one side, smooth on the other. He paints the textured side (the bottom), and uses the smooth top as a base for 1/700th scale ships, painting in the wake, on the top. It looks surprisingly realistic.

As stated by others, clear sheet painted as desired would work. If the bridge supports are going to be in the water, drill the appropriate size holes for the supports in the sheet, add artist' gel medium (acrylic) to fill in the holes and add ripples, waves or whatever details to the surface.

8 0z bottle for less than $10 comes in two densities/sheens and dries clear. Liquitex, Grumbacher and others avaulable at arts n craft stores.

Also availabe in 2 part solution is Enviro-Tec clear. There should be enough in their small kit (under $8) to do 10-12 similar sized projects.

-- Chuck Ryan snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEearthlink.net Springfield OH

There is really no need for any kind of clear medium. Every European canal I ever saw was completely opaque with gray-green algae. Shep Paine used to just give the surface of the base a smooth finish and paint and varnish it to represent the surface of the water. If you have a need for small waves or eddys, you can use acrylic gel medium or epoxy to texture the surface, and both dry clear. Gerald Owens

Hey, thanks so much for the great ideas. I have some good options now. One thing....yesterday I was in Hobby Lobby, and in their toy train scenery stuff they had something called "Realistic Water" (I think that's the right name) by Woodland Scenics. It claims to be ready-made, and you just pour it. The price was about $15. Any comments on this product? It sounds like the clear sheet painted on the underside is gonna be my best bet. I was also instructed to use a clear gel to tidy up around the bridge supports, but would I also use the gel for where the water touches the embankment?

Randy IPMS Houston

We're living in a world that's been pulled over our eyes to blind us from the truth. Where are you, white rabbit?

I've used this stuff on a seashore diorama a couple years back and I love it. But you have to heat the beads and melt them (I bought a cheap cook pot from Dollar General to be dedicated to this project). The plastic melts nicely and pours well, assuming a nice flat surface. I put it down in several layers and with the last one, I cheated and raised the diorama for force "breakers" to form. I painted Tamiya translucent blue to the second last coat and touched it up on the last coat, with opaque titanium white on the breakers, and a drybrush of sand to replicate debris churned up. For this diorama, the Woodland Scenics worked well, but I tried it on another, with a scrap boat (as a test) - the boat melted.

I use the Liquidtex Clear Gel for some dioramas. For a series of thin coats, it works very well, but I've used it on a series of tidal basin dioramas. Here the "water" will be thicker, up to one inch deep and I've found that it takes quite a while for the gel to clarify. One trick that I've used is to place the dioramas in the hot sun (after it has surface-cured first, usually about a day or two) and leave them there until they clarify, the thicker the coat, the longer that it will take. The longest was about a half-inch thick and that took about six weeks, but we have been having a cool summer without a lot of sunshine. I am leery about placing the diorama into a warming oven though, not having a lot of knowledge concerning the melting point of the plastic models inside. But once it dries, it looks fantastic!

-- John The history of things that didn't happen has never been written. . - - - Henry Kissinger

Like I said, the Woodland Scenics needs to be melted to make it work. I did mine at the kitchen stove with the draw fan running. As to the Clear gel, I currently have three small dioramas curing in a bedroom window, and really don't notice any smell.

-- John The history of things that didn't happen has never been written. . - - - Henry Kissinger

Not by "chance"...but by *fact*!

:o)

How 'ya been Dude?!

I guess I need to add you to my "joke subscription email list".....

Woodland stuff is ok (I guess) for thin applications but starts to shrink and yellow when poured more than 1/8" thick. It also lifts off fairly easily. Enviro-Tec and gel mediums are cheaper and can be manipulated all through the curing time. The only water subject I have a pic of is located at:

I used Enviro-Tec for the stream, gel medium for the waves/ripples and such.

I understand that about the Teflon®, that's why I was using the fan in conjunction melting the plastic beads. I've only used it once or twice because basically you can't put a plastic model into it without causing damage (it gets that hot). When I said that there was no odor, I was refering to the Liquitex Clear Medium®. I have heard (but haven't tried it because of lack of stones) that you could speed up the clarification process somewhat by putting the item in a WARM oven (set to about 150º) for a while (anywhere from a few hours to overnight), but again, I don't know what this would do to plastic model. The only birds that I have are chickens, turkeys, ducks geese and the occasional pigeon and they're in no condition to complain.

-- John The history of things that didn't happen has never been written. . - - - Henry Kissinger

How do you handle typical everyday home-cleaning and/or laundry products (bleach, ammonias, other "caustic" cleaners, etc.)? I have always wondered if these would have an effect on small indoor animals, be they birds, mice, hamsters, etc.

And snipped-for-privacy@aol.comspamless (The Old Timer) opened up and revealed to the world news: snipped-for-privacy@mb-m11.aol.com:

I would have to say that again just because "we" can't smell any odors doesn't mean that it isn't releasing gas(es) that are toxic to parrots or other pet animals in the house. Even something as "simple" as burning dinner in a non-Teflon® coated pot or pan can be deadly to a parrot. I have some wood glue that the FDA has determined to be safe for use on cutting boards. I called the manufacturer and they haven't tested it for use on products for use by birds and so their recommendation is/was that I shouldn't risk using it on anything for my birds. And without an assurance that it is safe to use on toys that my birds will be chewing on I will not take the chance with their life/health.

That the modeller with the funny hat, afraid of rabbits....