not having too many cobblestone streets here near Berkeley, CA, just what colors are good to paint a cobblestone street? Do I need to be anal and paint each stone a different shade of grey?
Advise please..... ( I bought the Custom Dioramics Chateau Approach diorama base and it has a mess of stones....)
"Cobblestones" tend to be dark brown to grey. These are the rounder, run-of-bank gravel items. "Paving stones" or "Belgian block" are the cut, rectangular stones and tend from light grey to sand colored.
What you can do is paint the base overall with the base shade, then mix a series of increasingly lighter shades and spray on randomly (but try following the courses of the paving if there are any). The idea is to introduce variations in the shades, not "paint the bricks." Finally, finish with a wash to fill in the joints and set the brick apart.
Depends on the region. In Naples (Italy) the cobblestones I saw were all from volcanic eruptions, in varying weathered shades of black. But, in Savannah (Georgia) the cobblestones came from sailing ship ballast that accumulated for a couple of centuries, and were black, grey, tan, white and a couple of weird green ones, all mixed together on River Street. I would suppose that a Chateau Approach would mainly use regional stones from a nearby quarry or river, and would mostly be pretty much the same, with a couple of different ones thrown in to break up the monotony (at least that's how I would paint them).
Just a good medium gray will do, but wash it with a blackish/brown oil base paint and you should have it. You can paint different shades of that gray for that individual look they have, but the differences in shade should be subtle.
Definitely vary the colors. Use differing shades of gray, and throw in a few browns, and maybe even a few russet reds. Make sure they are all matte. After all is done in this stage; brush on a heavy coat of burnt umber oil paint. Let it set for a half hour or so, then wipe it off. This will stain the "stones", giving them a warm rustic tone; and will also clean up the "grout" areas. Seal it with clear matte spray.
Ok, one of the best places for info like this is Model railway magazines, some of there detailing techniques are excellent, and in fact this months issue of Model Rail (number 61) has an article on doing cobblestones!
What they advise is the following, rub in a powdered filler (like polyfiller) so it pertty much fills the gaps between each cobble, then paint it with a teak wood dye, be careful to use one that won't melt the plastic though, once this is done and dry add a wash of thinned black panit, from the photos it looks very thinned. Give it about 6 hours to dry, then with a very fine grade waterprrof abrasive paper gently rub the top of the cobbles, the individual stones will lighten and vary in colour and the mortar course will stay dark.
From the photo's accompanying it looks excellent, especially if you have lots to do.
Yeah.....any one region can lay claim to its own unique "accutate" stone colors; but as Mr. Bonnett pointed out, throwing in a little "color" will help alleviate the monotony. It will also help accentuate the modeler's "artistic" skills; in other words, helping show that he actually put some thought and effort into the groundwork, as opposed to just "shooting it gray". You do not want people to think that your groundwork was just "phoned in"; especially if you put a lot of effort into the model...
Sure, but on Louisburg Square, they're all individually selected - by the Committee to Preserve Louisburg Square. And then they have a vote as to whether or not to allow each individual paving stone in. And if that cobblestone doesn't come from "good old Boston stock," it's rejected.
And please, in regard to Louisburg Square, never use the term "black."
i lived in the people's republic of cambridge for years, then the greek republic of roslindale and finally the u.n enclave in jamaica plain. i'm going back to the city..... i lived in nahant till the yuppie flood.
We, being modelers, are also known to dabble in photography. And who of us has NOT tried to take a photograph of the full moon at night? Usually, the results leave much to be desired, usually because most of us assume that a time exposure is necessary. I assumed so as well, until I read that the surface of the moon, under direct sunlight, has the same albedo as asphalt on a sunny day! (common sense, when you actually think about it...lol)
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