Krylon Question

I don't think there's much Krylon makes that I haven't tried at one time or another, and they all seem to work well. As for which primer to use on plastic (assuming you're referring to styrene), any of them I believe. The only real considerations are color of the next coat, and whether or not it needs to be sandable. I've used the one-coat metallics and the base coat/clear coat system with good success. Hope that helps.

Krylon's one of my fav brands of model paints! I've used them for years with no probs at all.

I have had great success with Krylon Fusion series; it really bonds well with plastic and resin.

I used the black as a primer on one model, painted the interior green over it. When I scraped the joining surface for using liquid glue, the interior green came off in the first swipe of the scalpel. The Fusion black underneath took a whole bunch of swipes before it came off. I was very impressed at how it bonded with a fairly thin application.

--- Stephen

I agree. I usually use the grey primer, but there is a red oxide primer I use if the major color is red.

The grey is a little thicker- lots of body- and really covers scratches and dents fast. I have never had a problem with either of these on plastic.

Used to use their clearcoat on some models but ran into a problem with it being too hot for most Testors finishes, now I use Testors clear lacquer finishes. I do use Krylon Bronze, Brass and Gold for modeling and love the finishes I get with them. Haven't tried their different Silvers yet.

Want a great silver, get Testor's Chrome spray. You have to let it dry for a day or so, but once you get the hang of using it right, you can get a finish you can see yourself reflected in. I used that on my 1/48th scale LK Soviet Moon lander, and some who saw the pictures of it thought it was made out of metal.

Pat

OK, I have to ask, what is the 'hang of using it right', besides the usual rattle-can caveats (spray at distance recommended by mfr in smooth even pass starting spray before the model and ending after the model, and so on)?

Also, with the number of textured and special sprays coming out in the past decade, how are people finding them for model applications (I mean hammered finishes, speckled finishes, antiques, etc.)?

Used that on an old Lindberg Long "Midget Mustang" racing plane. Gave it a nice "chromey" finish.

1.) Shake the can very thoroughly. 2.) It's best to do the paint job in one coat....this is the tricky part; not thick enough and it won't dry into a smooth mirror-like finish; too thick and it will run on the model. You need to get the coating thick enough that the exterior of the model is "wet" with it, but it's not running. 3.) Spray distance is very important, the carrier medium for the pigment (I'm fairly sure it's some sort of aluminum or chromium in a extremely fine form) is quite volatile...spray it too close and it will run; spray it from too far away and it will get a dull and rough finish as it will hit the model in a semi-dried form. This stuff works differently from other silver paints; instead of drying into a layer of transparent paint with the pigment embedded in it, the metallic pigment "floats" on top of the paint layer (so if you spray it on a sheet of Plexiglas, the outside will be shiny, but viewed through the Plexiglas it will be dull). 4.) Let the paint dry thoroughly before handling the model; at least twelve hours, preferably 24 hours. I did these using the Testor's Chrome paint: Voskhod later got a improved upper retro module, and the two long whip antennas on top of the reentry module removed) The finish on all three models hasn't lost its luster over the intervening years, and I can see my reflection in the Vostok from where I'm sitting as I write this.

I'm sure that they could have a lot of uses, particularly if one was trying to replicate cast concrete or roughly cast armor plate.

Pat

I'm really surprised that no one has redone the old Hawk Model Company chrome-plated model aircraft idea. Other than the trouble with gluing the parts together, that really worked well, particularly the two-toned ones.

Pat

the mustang was nice. had to rough the paint for underneath and the tail but it looked good.