I don't think there's much Krylon makes that I haven't tried at one time or
another, and they all seem to work well. As for which primer to use on
plastic (assuming you're referring to styrene), any of them I believe.
The only real considerations are color of the next coat, and whether or
not it needs to be sandable. I've used the one-coat metallics and the base
coat/clear coat system with good success. Hope that helps.
I agree. I usually use the grey primer, but there is a red oxide
primer I use if the major color is red.
The grey is a little thicker- lots of body- and really covers
scratches and dents fast. I have never had a problem with either of
these on plastic.
I have had great success with Krylon Fusion series; it really bonds well
with plastic and resin.
I used the black as a primer on one model, painted the interior green
over it. When I scraped the joining surface for using liquid glue, the
interior green came off in the first swipe of the scalpel. The Fusion
black underneath took a whole bunch of swipes before it came off. I was
very impressed at how it bonded with a fairly thin application.
Used to use their clearcoat on some models but ran into a problem with
it being too hot for most Testors finishes, now I use Testors clear
lacquer finishes. I do use Krylon Bronze, Brass and Gold for modeling
and love the finishes I get with them. Haven't tried their different
Want a great silver, get Testor's Chrome spray.
You have to let it dry for a day or so, but once you get the hang of
using it right, you can get a finish you can see yourself reflected in.
I used that on my 1/48th scale LK Soviet Moon lander, and some who saw
the pictures of it thought it was made out of metal.
I use mostly 'Painter's Touch' (Rustoleum brand) and American
Tradition (Valspar brand) 'rattle-can' primers, which are generally
fairly good. For some reason Krlyon spray-cans seem not to be carried
much by the Big Boxes around here (Home Deport in my NY neighborhood
seems to be almost exclusively Rustoleum).
OK, I have to ask, what is the 'hang of using it right', besides the
usual rattle-can caveats (spray at distance recommended by mfr in
smooth even pass starting spray before the model and ending after the
model, and so on)?
Also, with the number of textured and special sprays coming out in the
past decade, how are people finding them for model applications (I
mean hammered finishes, speckled finishes, antiques, etc.)?
1.) Shake the can very thoroughly.
2.) It's best to do the paint job in one coat....this is the tricky
part; not thick enough and it won't dry into a smooth mirror-like
finish; too thick and it will run on the model. You need to get the
coating thick enough that the exterior of the model is "wet" with it,
but it's not running.
3.) Spray distance is very important, the carrier medium for the pigment
(I'm fairly sure it's some sort of aluminum or chromium in a extremely
fine form) is quite volatile...spray it too close and it will run; spray
it from too far away and it will get a dull and rough finish as it will
hit the model in a semi-dried form.
This stuff works differently from other silver paints; instead of drying
into a layer of transparent paint with the pigment embedded in it, the
metallic pigment "floats" on top of the paint layer (so if you spray it
on a sheet of Plexiglas, the outside will be shiny, but viewed through
the Plexiglas it will be dull).
4.) Let the paint dry thoroughly before handling the model; at least
twelve hours, preferably 24 hours.
I did these using the Testor's Chrome paint:
(the Voskhod later got a improved upper retro module, and the two long
whip antennas on top of the reentry module removed)
The finish on all three models hasn't lost its luster over the
intervening years, and I can see my reflection in the Vostok from where
I'm sitting as I write this.
I'm sure that they could have a lot of uses, particularly if one was
trying to replicate cast concrete or roughly cast armor plate.
I'm really surprised that no one has redone the old Hawk Model Company
chrome-plated model aircraft idea.
Other than the trouble with gluing the parts together, that really
worked well, particularly the two-toned ones.
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