New Glue and Gap Filler

in my expirience with such homemade filler, you will find some shrinkage. it is easy enough to touch up. "everyday somehwere in the universe, someone is inventing gunpowder." the weapon shops of isher, -a e vanvogt.

Years ago, Scale Auto Enthusiast magazine printed an article about low buck tips. One was to fill a half empty bottle of Testor's liquid cement with chopped up sprue and let it dissolve in the bottle of cement. You adjusted the thickness of the melted plastic by the amount of sprue you added. It's good for small fills.

Ben

Google tells me this is an acrylic putty. It must be quite liquid to flow through a hypodermic needle tip.

How well does it adhere to polystyrene or resin?

Is it intended for filling small gaps only?

You'll be lucky to find a pin small enough to go down hypodermic tubing. Some small-diameter wire should be easy enough to find though.

I have used this idea for awhile now (Not sure where I first heard of it, but anyway I put all styrene scraps in a bottle, then add some liquid cement till it's a, well I guess pudding like consistancy) - only problem is that this filler produces long strings as you scoop it out to apply it - that's a bit of a pain. Otherwise it works OK, since, well, it is styrene...

been doing that since the early 60's. modeling putty then was overpriced for a teen kid and the homemade worked well.

I've tried this too - by "melting" spare sprues in MEK. It works well, but you can't slop the stuff on like regular putty. If it's more than about 1/8" thick, you'll get a skin on the outer surface that hardens, but the inside will still be soft. Sanding will only expose more gooey "putty".

Also, since the putty contains glue, it can soften the underlying styrene if it's applied to thickly.

It works best in small layers.

Frank

i have some lindberg green sprue/glue mix 8 years old. still fine. if it does harden, add more liguid cement. it never goes bad.