Tips for Realistic WWI Wood Props??

Just got the 1/28 Revell Spad and the side panel box art shows a prop with fairly decent wood grain detail....

anyone found a way to make plastic props look like wood? Now there would be a good after market item,,,,,real wood props.

thx - Craig

Reply to
crw59
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Reply to
William H. Shuey

Uh, you could try carving your own. With 1/72nd models, using 'wood' coloured paint and some regular brown paint worked well for me. But I agree, it's a lot more difficult in the larger scale. The best representation of wood on plastic I've seen was on Anthony Hazelaar's 1/25th Model T collection. He's been posting them regularly over on abms but he's now working on Model As.

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.

Reply to
Mad-Modeller

There's a modeler here in Seattle named Jack Matthews who dyes paper with tea, then laminates it together. (I think with CA glue but maybe just white glue)

He uses as many layers as necessary to make the correct width of each stripe, and carves his propellors from that. He just puts a clear varnish/glaze over it at the end. These are, by far, the best models of wooden propellors I've ever seen.

-- Stephen

Reply to
Stephen Tontoni

For a solid wood prop use a sewing needle to score the plastic many times in the direction of the grain. Sand lightly to remove the burr. Undercoat with an acrylic. I use Panzer yellow. Overcoat with artist's oils. I use Burnt Umber or Burnt Sienna. The oils stain the under coat and fill the the scribed grain. Top coat with Future to give a varnished look.

For a laminated prop it's best to laminate and carve in miniature.

Frank

Reply to
Frank Koval

Reply to
frank

Or you can just buy some wood grain decal paper.

I have some in several different colors and shades for the eventual WW I A/C I know I will have to build.

My friends dad just carved him some 1/32 and

1/28 prop's (now he has to build the kit's)
Reply to
AM

are there any pics anywhere? really like to learn that one. i know how to make paper which may help.

Reply to
e

Brush painting with a light and a dark wood color. Some people put the paint coats on heavy/wet. I prefer putting the first color on wet, letting it dry thoroughly, then dry brushing on the second color. Finish up with a coat of clear.

Our club had the topic of brush painting at its last meeting. There is as much technique to brush painting as there is to airbrushing. I am far better at the later than the former, but would certainly like to improve my techniques with the former.

Reply to
Don Stauffer in Minnesota

i've done 2 wooden props i was happy with in my modeling career. out of hundreds. but i am getting better.

Reply to
e

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