Washing Models

yes2

Reply to
e
Loading thread data ...

well for the past 42 years I have never done it. little buggers still go together just fine.

Craig

Reply to
crw59

Same here.

Reply to
Rufus

Does all model kits need a scrub down?,or is it just a good idea?.

Reply to
teem

Only one I've ever seen that needed washing (more like sandblasting...) was an ICM Yak kit...that thing must have been packed in cosmoline. Nothing cut it. And I subsequently never finished it.

Other than that the only kit-laundering I've ever done in 35 odd years is to clean up after using Solvaset on decals.

Reply to
Rufus

Do all model kits need a scrub down?,or is it just a good idea?.

Hmmm, yes. To clarify that...I've had good and bad results from both enamels and acrylics on both washed and unwashed plastic. The bad results were fisheyes and areas that didn't adhere well. The specific cause? Who knows, surface contaminants of some kind. Look at it this way; washing can't hurt, not washing might--is it worth the risk? As long as you get everything rinsed properly and absolutely dry before you paint washing won't create its own set of problems. You could opt for a simple alcohol washdown--just make sure you get everything covered. Whether or not I wash with soap and water or alcohol depends on my time constraints; if I need it right now it gets alcohol, if I have time it gets soap and water. As weird as this may sound, taking the time to scrub things down with soap and water is actually rather relaxing. Now, notice I mentioned plastic earlier--resin and vinyl are a different story. Both get washed every time, no exceptions. I've yet to touch a resin or vinyl kit that didn't have some type of residue from the molding process, whether it be talc particles, or liquid release agent. Generally, for resin or vinyl I do both soap and water, and alcohol as well. Just from a personal standpoint, knowing myself as well as I do (very, VERY little patience and incredibly low tolerance for BS), the little extra work washing greatly outweighs the extra work I might have stripping, repriming and repainting, which I've been forced to do once or twice. No fun.

Reply to
Disco58

You've been fortunate not to have one that fairly dripped mould release. If it feels greasy, washing it is recommended.

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.

Reply to
Mad-Modeller

sandblasting...)

Same with the ICM PzKpfw II Luchs. It was coated with a thick, nasty substance that took me several tries to remove. Sort of like a combination of tar and axle grease. I used a tooth brush and scouring powder to scrub it off.

Reply to
RobG

Resin generally requires it, while for plastic it's generally a good idea.

That said, I consider it a required step for any model I build. Regardless of material. Multiple times in fact ...

I wash all the sprues on a kit before starting to work on it.

I scrub all completed subassemblies with a toothbrush and dishsoap before priming.

I scrub all subassemblies with a toothbrush and dishsoap between coats (primer, paint or clear coat) if I do any sanding.

Washing the sprues gets rid of anything left over from the manufacturing process. Washing the subassemblies gets rid of anything left over from the assembly process (sanding debris, finger prints, skin oils, etc).

The first step (washing sprues before beginning assembly) is the only step I'd consider optional. At least for many plastic kits. But I do it anyway. Always following the same process keeps me from forgetting steps and makes it easier to asses changes to the process.

John

Reply to
John McGrail

i guess i was lucky, my icm luchs sucumbed to a soak in warm dish soapy water.

Reply to
e

I was just checking,this day & age,I thought that mold release was a thing of the past-better plastic moldingtechniques. thank you all.

Reply to
teem

It probably depends on the manufacturer. For example, of the 4 or 5 Bandai Gundam kits I'm currently working on, none of them had any noticable goo on the sprues. However, the Games Workshop Warhammer 40k Tau XV8 Crisis Battlesuit I'm getting ready to paint had some wet/greasy looking spots on it.

Reply to
John McGrail

I generally do resins, but hardly ever plastics.

John McGrail wrote:

Reply to
frank

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.