Waterline Optional Ship Kits

with the Trumpeter Hood as an example, If you decide to go full hull,
you have to glue the red bottom hull section on to themain hull pieces?
does that mean you have to fill and make uniform around 60 inches of
seam where the pieces fit together?
Yikes.
Craig
Reply to
crw59
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Yeah but I hear the Hood hull actually fits, unlike the Hornet, Essex Class, Lexington and North Carolina hulls.
Mad-modeller wrote:
Reply to
Ron Smith
Sounds like it. Yeeow!
Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.
Reply to
Mad-modeller
Yes. You must make great pains when gluing bottom on to make sure it fits properly. Many kits have an inadequate flange. Try a trial fit. If there is any problem at all, add extra flanges and reinforcements on one piece or other before gluing.
I add the bottom as soon as possible, and then just treat it as a one piece hull. I do hull gluing before any painting.
Reply to
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Trumpeter's problem is usually worse than a simple inadequate flange. 1/16" off in length is typical and up to 1/8" in width. Given their normal stiffeners the width problem requires at least some cutting but then you have to rebrace with styrene spreader or you'll have worse problems later.
D> Yes. You must make great pains when gluing bottom on to make sure it
Reply to
Ron Smith
The width problem is warpage (at least it was in my case). I added supports between the sides to bring it back out to full width.
Reply to
Don Stauffer
I was referring to their typical hull fit problem which is present on the 1/350 Hornet, Lexington, Essex Class and North Carolina hulls. It's not warpage, it's parts that are not the same size where they meet. This has been a bugaboo for Trumpeter from day one. Trying to force the fit on any of them, especially Lexington can lead to warpage and deck fit problems later. With the engineering available today there is no excuse for it.
Reply to
Ron Smith

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