Trumpeter KV 2 build report

Ok, i'm motivated and i dragged the kit out. the fenders
> stay off. i will use the piece track and not the rubber
> band. it is a beautiful kit! clean and good.
Actually I had a lot of flash on parts
of my KV 2. Not that bad mind ya, but I
was surprised given the quality of the
moldings in general.
The problem with the fenders are the
track wipers. They prevent the tracks
from rising off the return rollers,
(just like the real thing) so fitting first
is a must. Then add the fenders, paint, then
add the tracks. I just got greedy time wise.
A few nice big ejector pin marks on the fender
undersides, so you do get to whip out some
modeling stuff.
IF... you add the tracks after the fenders, make
sure the sprockets can turn freely so you can
*roll* the piece of track length around to meet
the one piece upper track. You are screwed otherwise.
Time when you will add the mud scrapers, you
cant pull the sprockets off after they are on.
Oh, you might want to sand down ALL the pins
the idlers, sprockets, road wheels, and return
rollers fit on. It is an extremely tight fit
before paint, almost impossible after !
BTW, there are sixty (60!) parts that make up
the road wheels, idlers, sprockets, and return
rollers..... Have fun lol. (only 56 for tracks)
The road wheel arms are keyed, so alignment is good,
but I found mine were ever so slightly canted inwards
on the bottom. Cant fix it now, but will be almost
invisible when finished. Everything does indeed sit
*square* no corner higher than any other.
Good job here Trumpeter.
The turret is perfect fit, you can add the gun
and mantlet after painting, don't forget the spacer
(C 5 I think) Also putty in the two groves
around the barrel, or buy an after market one.
(WTF was Trumpeter thinking ??)
I went the putty route. Glue hatch and periscopes
from inside. (they make this too easy don't they)
Cut the copper wire to exactly what they say,
71mm, and the ends are a perfect fit into the
eye bolt ends. I chose NOT to open up the holes on
the hull for the *arm* that holds the other end
of the tow cable. I then stretched the cable and arm
and the glued the arm to the hull to get a fairly
tight cable. (not perfect, but oh well) You can
remove the cable, and then paint the hull.
Add the engine bay access covers BEFORE you glue
the rear deck on the hull. That way you can glue
from the inside. Same with front hull hatch and
hatch ring.
BTW when mating the upper front hull to the bottom
hull, get as good an alignment at the forward edge.
It will make adding the front fender braces easier
and more seam/gap free. (I had minor fit problem here)
Nothing on this kit required any thinking, just
getting off my ass and building. And I did ;-)
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Gee, I had none of those problems! It's also a fun kit to play with, as I turned two of the other KVs into a KV-3 for a magazine article.
The problem with the gun barrel comes from somebody reading the original set of plans which shows three sections. Some KVs apparently had a sleeve around the rear of the barrel to protect the section that recoils (e.g. unpainted but has to be kept clean; see the foot or so of silver sticking out from the mantelet of 76mm Shermans to see what I mean.)
Great kit though.
Cookie Sewell
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sand down for the individual links? ok. the one peiceare on my tammy as i said. i'll post a couple of pics in a few minutes.
there was so much good stuff here, i printed it out and added it to the directions. thanks big time. i'm very much still learning this craft and advice helps a lot.
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Actually I don't consider any of this a problem except for the flash on approx 30% plus parts, and the warped upper hull plates, where both fore and aft were twisted. Reason I had slight fit prob at both the very front and very rear hull joints with the upper deck pieces.
My only problem with the tracks was that I glued the fenders on the hull before I even opened the bag the tracks were in. I was about to add the return rollers, when I decided try fitting the top run. Then I realized that the track wipers really worked. I was going along the same lines of building like I did on a DML JS II long ago. (no track wipers and lower return rollers there) I was just in a hurry. Made me take longer in the end... I prefer the DML tracks over the Trumpeter.
Like I said in my post, kit's like these I feel like I am losing modeling skill. They are that easy to put together, I cant believe it. The only *drag* I feel is having to snip, and sand down what seems like millions of sprue gates........
-- AM
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Let me give one piece of advice here.
"Anything Worth doing, Is Worth Doing Badly"
As in, you will go through a lot of hard work, turn out some failures, and LEARN along the way. nothing comes out perfect the first time !!! Eventually you will get where you want.
BTW, the encoding in your pic's I can't see them. From what little I could see, keep up the good work !! I like your heavy weathering on some of them. Like my kid says, you cant make it dirty enough. After a week in the field, him, his Stryker, and all their gear becomes the same color. with various shades of grease, oil and filth in between...
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thanks. and i do know that learning takes many steps and mistakes. i fins as many mistakes as i can... thanks also on the weathering. my only concern is that it is too 2 dimensonial. i need mud to be thicker and dirt to have clumps. just painting it on is not enough. the pictures are standard jpgs which i try to reduce size on. what problem are you having.
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I think it might be my Mac, or yenc encoding I will get on my other Linux box and give it a try.
One thing I have noticed in years of working on construction sites and looking at heavy equipment, is that even brand new machines seem to immediately pick up little scratches that immediately turn a deep red brown rust color. Same thing happens on military vehicles, just harder to see. But it always is there in some amount. The heavy clumps of dirt work if that is where you plan the vehicle to have been, otherwise various shades of dust and mud work well.
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