Actually I had a lot of flash on parts of my KV 2. Not that bad mind ya, but I was surprised given the quality of the moldings in general.
The problem with the fenders are the track wipers. They prevent the tracks from rising off the return rollers, (just like the real thing) so fitting first is a must. Then add the fenders, paint, then add the tracks. I just got greedy time wise. A few nice big ejector pin marks on the fender undersides, so you do get to whip out some modeling stuff.
IF... you add the tracks after the fenders, make sure the sprockets can turn freely so you can
*roll* the piece of track length around to meet the one piece upper track. You are screwed otherwise. Time when you will add the mud scrapers, you cant pull the sprockets off after they are on.Oh, you might want to sand down ALL the pins the idlers, sprockets, road wheels, and return rollers fit on. It is an extremely tight fit before paint, almost impossible after !
BTW, there are sixty (60!) parts that make up the road wheels, idlers, sprockets, and return rollers..... Have fun lol. (only 56 for tracks)
The road wheel arms are keyed, so alignment is good, but I found mine were ever so slightly canted inwards on the bottom. Cant fix it now, but will be almost invisible when finished. Everything does indeed sit
*square* no corner higher than any other. Good job here Trumpeter.The turret is perfect fit, you can add the gun and mantlet after painting, don't forget the spacer (C 5 I think) Also putty in the two groves around the barrel, or buy an after market one. (WTF was Trumpeter thinking ??) I went the putty route. Glue hatch and periscopes from inside. (they make this too easy don't they)
Cut the copper wire to exactly what they say,
71mm, and the ends are a perfect fit into the eye bolt ends. I chose NOT to open up the holes on the hull for the *arm* that holds the other end of the tow cable. I then stretched the cable and arm and the glued the arm to the hull to get a fairly tight cable. (not perfect, but oh well) You can remove the cable, and then paint the hull.Add the engine bay access covers BEFORE you glue the rear deck on the hull. That way you can glue from the inside. Same with front hull hatch and hatch ring.
BTW when mating the upper front hull to the bottom hull, get as good an alignment at the forward edge. It will make adding the front fender braces easier and more seam/gap free. (I had minor fit problem here)
Nothing on this kit required any thinking, just getting off my ass and building. And I did ;-)