Wtd: Instructionset Revell L.T.V. F-8E H-2240 1:48

Not by a long shot... ;-p

I think I may know already but, any chance it's the same kit as the Esci

1/48 Crusader? I have two of those (sheets, not kits).

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.

Mad-Modeller schrieb:

.............

Hello Bill,

a fellow german modeler sent me 3 scanparts from an instructionsheet, that was completely different from my model.

The upper wingsection was done in 2 parts, front and back, mine is 1 part. And the foldable wingparts were separate, while on my kit they are integrated in the upper wing. maybe Revell used two different kits, or he sent me scans from an 1:72 model.

Hope that`s helpful, Greetings, Peter

Peter,

I have a Revell F-8E in my stash. I will scan the instructions this weekend and mail them on monday.

Cheers,

Steven

ikke schrieb:

Hi Steven,

that is great. The GMX mailbox keeps 1 Gigabyte. So it would not be a problem. I hope for my sake that you`ve got a flatrate :).

Thanks, Peter (let me know if there`s a thing I can do for you)

That's possible. I'm glad Steven can help you.

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.

Peter,

I've uploaded the scans, you can download them from:

where they will be availlable 'till the end of this week.

Best regards,

Steven

PS: if you're interested, you can take a look at some of my models:

ikke schrieb:

many many thanks for your effort. I`ve downloaded them and you can delete them.

Sad to say that it is the same different kit as I described in the other thread:

But perhaps it`s helpful. Unfortunately I do`nt have the time today to compare how far I get with it. The undercarriage seems to be different, the cockpit section, which is much more detailed in your set. Also the decals are different. Mine are for the USS ORISKANY VF-162 or for the VMF(aw)312 and also for the roundels with the anchor.

Your kitnumber is 04547, mine is H-2240, as seen in the topic.

Of course I started to build the common things, but for the placement of the weapons, the gears and the other not so common things I thought the instructions would be helpful. At least for decal placement and the painting your sheets are welcome.

But soon it`s christmas, perhaps I`ll find the app. instructions :).

And I´ll have a steep look at your site.

Thanks, cheers, Peter (Berlin)

NS: ikke means here in Berlin idiom "ich" (I or me) :).

Very ingenious method of making a mold for the rear seat of your VW! Could you elaborate on it a bit more?

Peter Wehle schrieb:

Oh, I should have taken a much closer look to the Box instead of the model :(.

It`s clearly printed: REVELL - "ESCI-MODEL"! Now I know whats going on, why the regular Revell instructions do *not* fit.

So I`m in need for further help.

Sorry for that, Peter

Al,

This is how I proceeded:

1: Take a recepient, a ceramic bowl will do nicely 2: Take a few tealights and put the parafin in the bowl 3: Place the bowl in a cooking pot filled with water, you want the bowl to float rather then to sit on the bottom of the pot. 4: Warm the water slowly, you don't want it to boil. 60° Celsius is more than enough. If the parafin becomes too hot, you might damage the kit part that is to act as positive mould. 5: Once the parafin is molten, take the bowl out of the cooking pot (don't burn your fingers!) 6: Take the kit part you want to copy, put it upside down into the parafin. Don't immerse it completely, just push it in far enough so the top part stays above the parafin. 7: Use "helping hands" (you know: that contraption with the crocodile clamps) to hold the kit part while the parafin cools down. 8: When the parafin reaches body temperature (more or less), you can easily remove the parafin cast from the originial. 9: So now you have a negative parafin mould that you can fill up with a two component paste like the type used in car bodywork repair. 10: When the paste is hardened, remove the cast. 11: Since I used the front seats to make the mould, and the backseat is a bench that covers the width of the car, I repeated steps 9 & 10 for about 4 times. That provided me with enough material to puzzle the bench together. 12: The front seats in a car are usually bulged at the sides, so these bulges had to come off (save one left and one right bulge). The bulges were removed using a razor saw. 13: The resulting pieces where glued together using super glue. One piece with a leftside bulge, two pieces without bulges, one piece with a rightside bulge make up one bench. 14: The underside of the assembly was then sanded flat and to thickness. 15: A piece of sprue running the width of the benchassembly was then glued to the underside of the front end of the bench, to form a "nose", and sanded into shape. Gaps were filled using Tamyia putty. 16: Steps 11-15 were repeated to make the backrest for the rear bench, the sprue going to the backside of the top of the backrest. 17: Any pinholes were filled with Tamyia putty. I opted for Tamyia putty instead of superglue, as the latter is much harder then the benchmaterial and subsequent sanding would take that away rather then the cured superglue 18: Once shape is as desired, paint & install.

Hope this sheds a bit more light ont he matter,

Best regards,

Steven

Aha,

A few years ago I've made the Esci kit as well. If I recall correctly the name "Oriskany" is misspelled "Oryskany" on the decal sheet... Since I'm not in the habit of throwing things away, I might find the instructions somewhere and scan & post them. They should be online by thursday.

BTW: "ikke" also means "I" in dutch (I live in Gent, in the dutch speaking part of Belgium)

Cheers,

Steven

a true word, loud`nclear :).

Yupp, it is. But I think I can easily change it.

That is awesome!

That`s were they create my favourite "Originale Belgische Chocolade Zeevruchten" :), by Guylian in Sint Niklaas.

I`m so overwhelmed by your immediate help, so I don`t know how to say thank you.

I also have a website, once dedicated to 1/144 airliners. But as things always change, I ceased that. I went to 1/48 scale. My goal is to start at the beginning of the jetage after WWII. Meanwhile there are 13 Jets on the shelf in all stages of building. It`s pure fun.

Is your replyaddress valid?

Greetings, Peter

Thanks, Steven!

So, you really do have an Esci kit? How strange. I never took the instruction sheet back downstairs and was planning to scan it anyway. Let me know if you want them.

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.

Peter,

The scans are ready to dwonload from:

If your decal options are the same as the ones in the scans, then a word of caution is in order. When I decaled mine, all the decals fell off as soon as they dried, and they did'nt respond to Micro Sol or Micro Set setting solutions. As the kit quality isn't realy top notch, I dicided to experiment a little. To assist the decals in staying put, I used Johnson's Future (a similar product, although not identicaly the same, might be marketed in Germany under the name of Klir or Kleer). That kept the decals from falling of but didn't do anything to help them conform to the panel lines and rivets. So I tried something that is not for the faint hearted: I took a piece of non-woven cloth (the kind you use to wash the dishes with), wetted it and folded it in four. This I held against a hot cooking plate until it almost burned my fingers (four plies of cloth between my fingers and the cooking plate) and then pressed the hot cloth against the decal. I'm yet to see a more efficient setting solution then my hot cloth method! ;-)

Anyway, if your decals prove to be a nuisance, there are several aftermarket alternatives.

A word about Belgian chocolates: Guylian is good quality, but far from the best. Of course we don't export the better qualities, we rather keep them to ourselves instead. ;-) (just joking). If ever you are to visit Belgium, try Neuhaus (excellent, but expensive), Godiva or Daskalides (excellent and affordable).

As for my reply adress: I just made something up, in order to keep spammers away. You can use plasticwings(AT)lycos.nl Happy modelling!

Steven

...............

The scans *are* downloaded and......

Whoopeee, they`re the right ones. Now I can start over.

Thanks a lot, Peter

.......

Hi Bill, what`s that special with the Revell-Esci kit? Why is it strange?

Cheers, Peter

Aside from the fact that Revell is better know as re-packaging Italeri kits there's the fact that even after it looked like I had the wrong thing I didn't put it back where I got it. I went ahead and scanned it but it sounds as if you have what you need. Anybody need the Esci instructions?

Bill Banaszak, MFE Sr.